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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
6-month old 20S has a roll pin coming out from the buttstock. See pics for piece and position. It looks like part of the vertical, cheek piece adjustment. I tried a hollow point punch and light taps so far but bf I go much further-anyone have wise words of help?
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145380
 

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Put the hollow point AKA roll pin STARTER punch away and use the correct size roll pin punch to drive the pin back in. Always use the correct tool for a task if you do not possess the correct tool/s or knowledge to use them seek out a qualified gunsmith. From what I understand that stock alone sells for approximately $1000 if not more. Could be the original roll pin is out of tolerance but it is a roll pin as such they are available.
 

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that pin might just be the limiter for the cheek riser so it doesn't pop off.
but that is just me looking at it.

View attachment 145401
After looking at a few 20s stock photos online -I do not own a 20s- I have to concur with @theLBC that pin is very likely a travel limiting pin meant to stick out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What SeaMac said. You can get the punches at Brownells.
Thanks, I’ve got the necessary punch. I was mainly wondering if anyone else had seen this.
I suppose w the recoil of a .308 much can shake loose.
Example is that I continue to check and tighten the barrel screws every few outings.
Just happens I suppose.
 

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Thanks, I’ve got the necessary punch. I was mainly wondering if anyone else had seen this.
I suppose w the recoil of a .308 much can shake loose.
Example is that I continue to check and tighten the barrel screws every few outings.
Just happens I suppose.
Are you saying the 8 barrel screws are loosening? Those screws have a ratcheting style capture system like all SCARs, once properly torqued to 62inlbs it is improbable they could loosen.
 
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Thanks, I’ve got the necessary punch. I was mainly wondering if anyone else had seen this.
I suppose w the recoil of a .308 much can shake loose.
Example is that I continue to check and tighten the barrel screws every few outings.
Just happens I suppose.
it is meant to stick out, unless you want to remove the cheek piece.
if you look at it, there is no other purpose for a pin in that location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Are you saying the 8 barrel screws are loosening? Those screws have a ratcheting style capture system like all SCARs, once properly torqued to 62inlbs it is improbable they could loosen.
Thanks for the interest.
There are six (6) screws at the barrel tenon, 3 per side (20S) that are not ratchet type. Yes, they are tightened to 62 in/lbs.
For clarity:
145406
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
it is meant to stick out, unless you want to remove the cheek piece.
if you look at it, there is no other purpose for a pin in that location.
Thanks, looking again i see what you mean. I, for the first time noticed the roll pin sticking out and naturally thought-well, punch it in. I’ll leave it. All works as it should w the adjustment s.
 

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I am a little late, I concur with LBC. I checked mine (never noticed it before) and it appears to sticking out by design.

As far as the screws, mine were loose from factory. Once I had tightened them down, I have checked every time I went to the range. I am at 700 rounds and so far they haven't loosened at all.

Still good to keep checking though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am a little late, I concur with LBC. I checked mine (never noticed it before) and it appears to sticking out by design.

As far as the screws, mine were loose from factory. Once I had tightened them down, I have checked every time I went to the range. I am at 700 rounds and so far they haven't loosened at all.

Still good to keep checking though.
Thanks for the double-check.
 

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Thanks for the interest.
There are six (6) screws at the barrel tenon, 3 per side (20S) that are not ratchet type. Yes, they are tightened to 62 in/lbs.
For clarity:
View attachment 145406
For the record you are seemingly unfamiliar with your SCAR 20s as all SCARs are identical when it comes to barrel extension screw capture mechanisms. First, those six (6) screws that secure the barrel extension to the receiver have teeth machined into them. Those teeth mate with two (2) springs contained within the black plastic cover. The slightly bent tip at one end of those springs engage with the screw's teeth acting like pawls ratcheting with each turn of those screws. That ratcheting action makes it highly improbable for the screws to loosen or tighten without external force being applied. Also, the teeth on those screws are fairly pronounced and the two springs fairly stiff therefore it is not fairly easy to loosen or tighten those screws without feeling AND hearing the ratcheting mechanical action.

Here are some photos from MGW which should go along way towards educating you on components of your SCAR.



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145419
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
For the record you are seemingly unfamiliar with your SCAR 20s as all SCARs are identical when it comes to barrel extension screw capture mechanisms. First, those six (6) screws that secure the barrel extension to the receiver have teeth machined into them. Those teeth mate with two (2) springs contained within the black plastic cover. The slightly bent tip at one end of those springs engage with the screw's teeth acting like pawls ratcheting with each turn of those screws. That ratcheting action makes it highly improbable for the screws to loosen or tighten without external force being applied. Also, the teeth on those screws are fairly pronounced and the two springs fairly stiff therefore it is not fairly easy to loosen or tighten those screws without feeling AND hearing the ratcheting mechanical action.

Here are some photos from MGW which should go along way towards educating you on components of your SCAR.



View attachment 145420
For the record you are seemingly unfamiliar with your SCAR 20s as all SCARs are identical when it comes to barrel extension screw capture mechanisms. First, those six (6) screws that secure the barrel extension to the receiver have teeth machined into them. Those teeth mate with two (2) springs contained within the black plastic cover. The slightly bent tip at one end of those springs engage with the screw's teeth acting like pawls ratcheting with each turn of those screws. That ratcheting action makes it highly improbable for the screws to loosen or tighten without external force being applied. Also, the teeth on those screws are fairly pronounced and the two springs fairly stiff therefore it is not fairly easy to loosen or tighten those screws without feeling AND hearing the ratcheting mechanical action.

Here are some photos from MGW which should go along way towards educating you on components of your SCAR.



View attachment 145420

View attachment 145419
thank you, you’ve spent a lot of time on this to make your point. Much appreciated. wasn’t part of the original post but I’ll make sure to keep this in mind when I view all 8 screws the next time.
SCAR-always more to know!
 

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thank you, you’ve spent a lot of time on this to make your point. Much appreciated. wasn’t part of the original post but I’ll make sure to keep this in mind when I view all 8 screws the next time.
SCAR-always more to know!
It is important to most of us here that information provided in response to inquiries be accurate and complete. You brought up the screws seemingly loosening in post #7 which required repeated checking and tightening on your behalf, now it's only having to view those screws. You see, most of us here know those screws are captured in a way that prevents them from loosening. This on its face would seem as if your 20s is wholly defective -highly unlikely- or you're being somewhat untruthful, this is just another one of those strangely odd occurrences that keep occurring.....strangely enough.
 

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I am a little late, I concur with LBC. I checked mine (never noticed it before) and it appears to sticking out by design.

As far as the screws, mine were loose from factory. Once I had tightened them down, I have checked every time I went to the range. I am at 700 rounds and so far they haven't loosened at all.

Still good to keep checking though.
If you are regularly checking torque you're better off using a dial torque wrench. I've found using the click type too often can lead to over torque.
 

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If you are regularly checking torque you're better off using a dial torque wrench. I've found using the click type too often can lead to over torque.
Agreed! Very good suggestion not that the screws could loosen!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you are regularly checking torque you're better off using a dial torque wrench. I've found using the click type too often can lead to over torque.
Using FixItSticks but also have used the wrench that goes with the Ballista kit.
 
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