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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just found out Shockingly that the SS197/blue tip has the bullet glued in, not crimped so I wonder if my SS192, SS196 is glued or crimped? I know the SS195 & SS198 are Crimped!

Thank's
 
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I hate the plastic tips. They melt and make a mess in the flash hiders and especially suppressors. I really can't find a purpose for them other them to supposably help with "feed issues".
 
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This always makes me wonder how people successfully reload this round (I know that they do) if they don't glue it. I would think that there would be set back issues with just pressing it in.

That at is a good question. A have some SS197 and AE5728A brass cleaned, resized, reprimed, and ready for reloading but Im not sure if anyone who reloads these uses any glue at all.
It seems like they just press and go.

Ill ask my friends what they do to keep the projectile in place other than the pressure of the neck around the base of it.
 

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Just found out Shockingly that the SS197/blue tip has the bullet glued in, not crimped so I wonder if my SS192, SS196 is glued or crimped? I know the SS195 & SS198 are Crimped!

Thank's
yeah, I discovered the same. I was skeptical at first, but I had to find out and even ponied up another $30 to buy another box of SS197 SR so I can pull apart one of them to see if indeed the V Max projectile was only glued in.
It is.

Buffman already said that only a few older L191 rounds were crimped.
I guess the common assumption consensus is that all other 5.7 ammo is glued.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I hate the plastic tips. They melt and make a mess in the flash hiders and especially suppressors. I really can't find a purpose for them other them to supposably help with "feed issues".
The few times I unloaded some 5.7 mags I had 4-5 of the blue tips break off tips of blue plastic usually at least 1/4" or more per mag, hopefully the glue wont fail and the bullets drop, it is enough worrying about the life-span of the lead primers and now about Glue melting!

Seems there have recently been a few post about glue on AE ammo failing!


Wonder what would happ if someone goes shoot in desert and has some FN ammo in car trunk a week or 2?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Makes me wonder if I should get 1 and crimp all my ammo about 2K (OMG!) however if I had a prob with any FN would not honor any warranty and say it was reloaded ?
 
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Makes me wonder if I should get 1 and crimp all my ammo about 2K (OMG!) however if I had a prob with any FN would not honor any warranty and say it was reloaded ?
No need to. A buddy of mine who reloads 5.7 also told me yesterday that glue or crimp is not needed. The neck case will be pinched back down from resizing in the die and the neck pressure from the resized neck diameter will be more than sufficient to hold the projectile in place.

Also, this guy in this thread specifies he did not crimp the projectile in this thread; his post is #5
http://fnforum.net/forums/handloading-reloading-ammo/61666-need-help-wth-5-7-x-28-a.html





This thread has great 5.7 reloading info, including powder weights and projectile chrono speeds by powder brand, but I didn't read the entire thread.
http://fnforum.net/forums/handloading-reloading-ammo/485-i-want-reload-5-7x28mm-7.html

The 1st page was just useless dribble, it was not until pages 2-5 that were useful, and then I gave up by page 7 because it devolved into if the FiveseveN pistol can take what the PS90 can take.
Out of the only 7 pages I read, no mentioning of any crimping except something about crimping on .223 shells, which had nothing to do with reloading the 5.7.

If anyone remembers if crimping or gluing hand loaded 5.7 is mentioned in page 8 or later, please someone point it out to me so I can skip the useless bantering.
 

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The glue on the projectiles and sealer around the primers is not needed on reloads.
 

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I either very very lightly crimp or glue my 5.7 loads. Normaly, I do not find neck tension to be sufficient. If I can push the projectile into the case by placing the round nose down on my reloading bench and pushing down on the round, then neck tension is not sufficient.

The use of the adhesive by the factory loaders also plays a part in the slight delay of the projectile being released from the case allowing a faster pressure spike on tbe burn curve.

The adhesive is not solely used for bullet retention IMHO or in my observed findings. So I crimp very lightly or use a home made adhesive. The Markron works OK but is time consuming for little return.
 

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I either very very lightly crimp or glue my 5.7 loads. Normaly, I do not find neck tension to be sufficient. If I can push the projectile into the case by placing the round nose down on my reloading bench and pushing down on the round, then neck tension is not sufficient.

The use of the adhesive by the factory loaders also plays a part in the slight delay of the projectile being released from the case allowing a faster pressure spike on tbe burn curve.

The adhesive is not solely used for bullet retention IMHO or in my observed findings. So I crimp very lightly or use a home made adhesive. The Markron works OK but is time consuming for little return.
Excellent info :?

I used this several times in reloading other calibers, just for the primers though.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/954332/markron-custom-bullet-and-primer-sealer-1-2-oz-liquid
I never used it in lieu of crimping though.

As for the factory adhesive, any ideas on what Fiocchi uses?
 
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