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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Hopefully I'll be receiving an MREX MLOK rail next week - to install on my 16s.

Any and all advice welcome on removing the bottom Picatinny rail screw, from the barrel.
With the horror stories of stripped screws, I want to do this right, and once!

My main questionis heating the screw. Can this be done with just a standard BIC lighter, or do I need to shell out more cash at Home Depot for a mini Butane torch?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I've removed a few... some are tighter than others... I've only used a heat gun but typically it doesn't take much heat (30 seconds or so). Usually the screws that I've seen people have trouble with are the ones on the side of the receiver.
 

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If I were you I would get a heat gun and turn that sucker up. I just installed my KDG 4.9 MREX all I can say is LOVE IT!
Yea but heat gun, that'll do'er, I would steer clear of open flames.

Cheers.
 

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Hopefully I'll be receiving an MREX MLOK rail next week - to install on my 16s.

Any and all advice welcome on removing the bottom Picatinny rail screw, from the barrel.
With the horror stories of stripped screws, I want to do this right, and once!

My main questionis heating the screw. Can this be done with just a standard BIC lighter, or do I need to shell out more cash at Home Depot for a mini Butane torch?

Thanks in advance.
I say no way to the bic ! I've removed four of them and they were all very, very tight. They all had a excessive amount of Loctite on them, even though I was told they do not Loctite them, they were from the factory. You need a propane torch, the type used to solder with and a good quality wrench of the correct size. It's a T-25. Heat it up slow so you do not to discolor the anodizing by moving the flame back and fourth, don't just hold the flame in one spot ! On the front one concentrate the heat on the boss under the rail and on the rear remove the trigger module so you can get the heat on the boss, that's were the Loctite is. I did this with the barrel off, it would make it a lot easier to do. I know guys have done it with heat guns but mine were stupid tight and you only get one chance to do it the easy way! Good Luck
 

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You can use a Bic in a pinch. I did that with my 17S and held it there for about 60 seconds. Makes a bit of soot, but does not damage the finish at all and wipes right off. I much prefer to use a soldering iron though. Just stick it to the bolt for about 60 seconds or so, and it comes right out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You can use a Bic in a pinch. I did that with my 17S and held it there for about 60 seconds. Makes a bit of soot, but does not damage the finish at all and wipes right off. I much prefer to use a soldering iron though. Just stick it to the bolt for about 60 seconds or so, and it comes right out.
Thanks for all the info. I'm looking to balance doing it right, and not dumping more $$$ into this SCAR stuff. So if it's possible to do it without a run to pickup a soldering unit, I'd want to do that. Without being stupid about it ;)

I have a hot glue gun that might do the trick...minus the glue have you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lighter for 5 seconds - and that screw came out easy.

Taking the cheese graters off tonight, as the MREX just came in.
I'll post pics when I can!
 
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