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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With the assistance of FNH, I've recently received replacement parts for my broken cocking handle for my FS2000. Figuring that I've seen more than one person ask about exactly how to do it, I figured that I'd post these pics/links, showing you how! :D


Here are the instructions...


...and here are the illustrations.


These came from the armorer's manual, so the info contained in them should be accurate.




Not sure if the mods want to "sticky" this one...but I sure could have used this several days ago!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm taking pictures now with a kind of crappy camera (cell phone) of the step-by-step rebuild that I'm doing as we speak. Color pics with "do's" and some "don'ts) Should be up within an hour. :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay...grab your tool kits and proceed with me on my trip to replace my broken cocking handle on my FN FS-2000. Hope this helps you guys out there in a similar situation that I found myself in!

If you have any questions, check my previous post with parts and instructions in the FN-F2000 armorer's manual that I posted above ^^^


1. Alright...you're going to need an armorer's hammer (or small hammer), a 1/8" punch, 1/16" punch, a 3/32" punch, and your allen wrenches (You won't need all of these punches to "punch" pins out--I used them to merely occupy slots/holes to retain springs/pins, etc.).



2. Disassemble your FS2000 and using your allen keys, remove the 6 side plate screws and separate the slide plates. DO NOT disassemble the barrel groups or anything else.



3. Open up your FN FS2000 "Broken Cocking Handle" parts kit and you should have the following:



4. Now...take your left hand slide plate and SUPPORT IT on a hard surface. Find the broken cocking handle and identify the area where the STRAIGHT COILED PIN is attached to the cocking handle guide.



5. Using the 1/8" Pin Punch, drive the pin all the way out the bottom. STOP RIGHT THERE. Leave the punch all the way through the guide and handle. Collect your nerves...TAKE YOUR TIME...make sure your are in an area where you can find a spring if it goes flying through the air.



Cup your hand over the assembly and remove the punch. The parts should fall out into your hand. Way to go! You've survived to this point, none worse for the wear!

6. This is your COCKING HANDLE GUIDE. This is important...so hold onto it for later.



7. Now we're going to concentrate upon building the COCKING HANDLE ASSEMBLY. I DID NOT include the COCKING HANDLE SPRING (more on that later---just stick with me). You should have these parts:


8a. Now, take the two SLIDE RETURN PLATE SPRINGS and place them into their little slots in the COCKING HANDLE.



8b. They should drop right in....with one of the ends of the spring protruding from the back of the COCKING HANDLE. It should be the same on both sides when both springs are dropped into place:



9. Now the tricky part. Take the SLIDE RETURN PLATE and slide it down inside the COCKING HANDLE. Slide it down half-way, until you can wedge the legs of the two springs into the notches halfway down the plate. IMPORTANT NOTE: With the way that the springs drop in..it will appear that the spring's legs are too short...however, this is not the case. You're going to have to push them forward and up under the SLIDE RETURN PLATE'S SLOTS. Once this is done, I put a punch through the cocking handle to straighten out the spring "eyes" and lined it up with the hole in the cocking handle. NOW...HOLD THE WHOLE DAMN THING TOGETHER--TIGHTLY.



10. Now...using your THIRD ARM (lol), drive the small, STRAIGHT PIN through the front of the cocking handle. This will hold the whole, damned mess together!



11. You should now have a completely assembled COCKING LEVER ASSEMBLY. Now comes the fun part...attaching it to the COCKING LEVER GUIDE.

12. Next...go ahead and put the COCKING LEVER GUIDE on the INSIDE of the LEFT SLIDE PLATE. Note the location of the hole in the COCKING LEVER GUIDE (in YELLOW). BE CAREFUL.




13. If you ARE NOT CAREFUL, you will reverse the direction of the COCKING LEVER GUIDE and you'll have to start ALL OVER AGAIN if you screw up. Make sure that if you're looking down the side plate on the inside of the SIDE PLATE, that the SLIDE PLATE GUIDE looks like a "cup"---not a "flattened end" with a hole in it.



13. Remember the COCKING LEVER SPRING I talked to you about earlier? Go ahead and put it into place into the little channel behind the SLIDE RETURN PLATE (inside the COCKING LEVER ASSEMBLY).



14. Now the TRULY FUN PART! Carefully bring the COCKING HANDLE ASSEMBLY to the COCKING HANDLE GUIDE. Situate the COCKING HANDLE ASSEMBLY onto the COCKING HANDLE GUIDE and ensure that the COCKING HANDLE ASSEMBLY SPRING fits onto the "nipple" of the COCKING HANDLE GUIDE. Then simply drive the COILED STRAIGHT PIN into the hole in the COCKING HANDLE ASSEMBLY, thusly mating it to the COCKING HANDLE GUIDE.



15. HAPPY, HAPPY, JOY, JOY!



Now...just simply press your SIDE PLATES together, replace the Allen screws and your back in business!
 

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Great descriptions, and no matter what your opinion of your own photography is, the photos were very helpful.

I did, however, not need to split the upper, instead choosing to retain the cocking handle guide with wire. I suspect that the actuating rod of the bolt carrier would also hold this in place.

Popped out the pin, caught the springs, moved the parts over, aligned the roll pin hole using the punch, and let the roll pin follow the punch all the way though. The roll pin is not a very tight fit - we'll see if that falls out or something.

Done - three minutes, six, if you count the foil-wrapped parts in the foil wrapped kit with some more foil wrapping around it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
homeyclaus said:
Great descriptions, and no matter what your opinion of your own photography is, the photos were very helpful.

I did, however, not need to split the upper, instead choosing to retain the cocking handle guide with wire. I suspect that the actuating rod of the bolt carrier would also hold this in place.

Popped out the pin, caught the springs, moved the parts over, aligned the roll pin hole using the punch, and let the roll pin follow the punch all the way though. The roll pin is not a very tight fit - we'll see if that falls out or something.

Done - three minutes, six, if you count the foil-wrapped parts in the foil wrapped kit with some more foil wrapping around it.
Glad I could help. If I had a decent digital camera instead of a cell-phone camera, it would've been "teh win" for sure. GL with your carbine!
 

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Alloy upgrade from Judochop rules!

You really do not have to take this weapon down to replace the part that breaks either. (Note: I have not broken my stock charging handle, and upon removal, it shows ZERO signs of wear, or tear, or stress of any kind, so I'm not sure why they break actually.)

But, to be safe, rather than sorry, I have replaced mine with the billet aluminum replacement part. (It is slightly longer, and I like the extra leverage it offers actually, besides, it's clearly bomb-proof now.)

Here is what I did:

1) Select a punch or Torx screw driver that will be used to push out the roll pin that secures the OEM plastic handle. (Just the forward part that the alloy upgrade replaces.)

2) Note that there are two holes for the roll pin, and a hole for the spring that keeps the handle forward when not in use.

3) Clear your weapon! :) No shooting yourself please.

4) Pull the charging handle back, and lock it up/open.

5) Invert the rifle, so the sight/rail is down, and you are looking at the roll pin/handle from the underside. (Push this way, and it stays locked open the whole time.)

6) Use the Torx/punch to push out the roll pin while you cup the latch/spring/roll pin in your left hand.

7) My spring stayed with the rest of the charging handle assy. The roll pin was not tight at all.

8) Align the new part to the spring, and then the roll pin holes. Insert the pin, and use the Torx/punch to set it fully and evenly like it was.

You are done. Perhaps 60 seconds if you hurry, and a few longer if you want to study how it all works, and check your existing parts for any signs of wear while you are at it.

HK Slap yourself silly now! 8) :shock: :-?

Personally, I've been "HK Slapping" this rifle since I first got it, and have no signs of wear on my stock charging handle. I could see how it would not survive being dropped on this side however, or being caught against an edge while clearing a building for example. (Along with the knuckles on your left hand...)

What seems to work best to reload is this drill:

Empty mag.
Pull charging handle with left hand back and lock up/open.
Flip up toilet seat.
Drop left hand, grasp magazine while pushing up release at same time.
Pull out empty mag, and visually confirm action/bolt/chamber is clear.
Swap for loaded mag.
Insert new mag, with check check it's fully seated.
Flip down toilet seat and HK Slap charging handle at same time.

Ready to rock and roll. :) :x

Sure, you could leave the toilet set part off, but I like to visually confirm there are no problems. (Not that there have been any problems since I started using C Products mags with the anti-tilt followers.)
 

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^^I never quite understood why the entire unit had to be disassembled either.....When I swapped mine for the metal unit, I just punched out the frontmost pin, installed the new piece, and was done in less than 2 minutes, and a good chunk of that was spent looking for the pin I dropped.

Maybe the extra steps are needed if a loose piece of the broken handle has fallen back into the charging handle assembly? I dont know. In my experience, however, removing the front 'finger lip' of the charging handle is not as complicated as this guide might make it seem.

Great info for those who want to disassemble the whole charging handle though.

ETA: Ok I looked at the pics again, I think I see what the deal is. FN sends you an ENTIRE charging handle plus springs. As far as I know, the only part than ever actually breaks is the front pivoting plastic finger lip. So all the other pieces are extraneous. In theory (unless Im missing something...it is late...) all you would need to do is punch out the front pin, take the finger lip off of the new charging handle, and reinstall it on the gun. Shouldnt ever have to take the entire assembly apart, "just the tip" so to speak.

:?
 

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Broke mine on 3rd day of owning the gun. I ordered one from judochop but called fn today for an original part. Talk about a goat roping. I Was on phone for just short of an hour and got some lady that was apperantly having a bad day. She acted if this was not an issue and said that they did not just have the part that breaks. She said it was all one unit and was $102. To make a long story short, after speaking with a manger they are shipping me the charging handle but said if it happens agian I would have to send the gun back for repairs. Does anyone have a specific person to contact so you dont have to go through the hassle?
 

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Jrl99 said:
Broke mine on 3rd day of owning the gun. I ordered one from judochop but called fn today for an original part. Talk about a goat roping. I Was on phone for just short of an hour and got some lady that was apperantly having a bad day. She acted if this was not an issue and said that they did not just have the part that breaks. She said it was all one unit and was $102. To make a long story short, after speaking with a manger they are shipping me the charging handle but said if it happens agian I would have to send the gun back for repairs. Does anyone have a specific person to contact so you dont have to go through the hassle?
Me. :D
 
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