Does anyone know a good way of cleaning the gas valve? Standard target loads don't cycle at all in my SLP anymore now (yes I have the low gas valve installed). Nitro shells work fine, but as soon as I use standard 2 & 3/4 rounds I have to manually eject and cycle... The gun itself is cleaned, but I did not find a good way even with the manual of figuring out how to clean the gas valve.
Cleaning Gas Valve
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Possibly ultrasonic cleaning would work. I haven't tried it, so you're on your own. However, it works (sort of; didn't harm anything) on Beretta gas pistons: http://shotgunreport.com/TechTech/TechnoidArchive/10-Apr-07.pdf
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16 Posts
There are a couple of excellent products that you can use to effectively clean the gas cylinder. All of my hunting and target shooting guns are gas operated Berettas, so I am very experienced with cleaning shotgun gas systems.
One is the Slip 2000 Gas Piston Parts and Choke Tube Cleaner. This product is super easy to use. All you do is take your gas piston and soak it in this solution for 15 minutes. Then take it out, and wipe it off!! It does a fantastic job. Here is a photo showing what it did on some dirty choke tubes:
I really love products from Slip 2000, and now exclusively use their excellent lubricant on all of my firearms.
Here is a link to more info about this product:
http://www.slip2000.com/choketube.html#
This will clean even the most dirty gas piston, and I would highly recommend it to anyone experiencing problems.
Another excellent cleaner is Shooter's Choice Shotgun and Choke Tube Cleaner. This stuff is fantastic at removing carbon build up. It just cuts through it like anything. I occasionally use the Slip 2000 product if my piston gets super dirty. Otherwise, I just give it a good cleaning with this Shooter's Choice cleaner.
Make sure that you AVOID using any steel brushes when cleaning the piston. Any brush you use should be Brass, or softer. Old Tooth brushes often work well too.
Also make sure that you use oil very sparingly on the gas system. Just a very light film should be put on the magazine tube, to facilitate the piston's movement. A heavy amount of oil will attract and hold more material. That is why I love the Slip 2000 Lubricant, because just a tiny amount of it goes a long way.
Anyway, that is how I keep my Berettas and my FN all working just fine.
Here is a photo the two Berettas that I primarily shoot. One is my main hunting shotgun, and the other one I use for Sporting Clays:
and here is my FN:
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9 Posts
Slip2000, BreakFree, Hoppes #9
Cleaning the SLP's gas piston is very difficult, but the best solution I've found is to first start by soaking it in the SLIP2000 gas piston and choke tube cleaner for about 10-15 minutes, then rinsing it under cold water while gently scrubbing the little holes with a soft old tooth brush.
Then I thoroughly dry it with a soft towel and blow dry it on high heat for about 5 minutes until the piston is completely dry and VERY hot.
When hot, I take it outside and spray Break Free CLP inside, outside, and into all the little holes, then i spray some Break Free on my toothbrush and gently scrub inside each hole, inside the piston, and at the edges. Scrub for about 2 minutes, then pat dry.
Finally, I wipe it out with a fresh soft towel and it's ready to go directly back into the firearm. Note, if you go this route, you do not need any extra lubricant. I've found that its best to just use a very light film of lube on the piston, if you put excessive lube on there, it just provides more surface area for fouling to stick to.
The SLIP2000 does virtually nothing except loosen up the fouling, the piston doesn't come out looking as clean as in the pictures above. Break Free is the only thing I've found that works on it.
It may interest you to know that when I fire cheap shells like Federal Multi Loads (never putting that in my gun again), it tends to gum up the gas system much more than when I fire quality ammo like Winchester AA.
Cleaning the SLP's gas piston is very difficult, but the best solution I've found is to first start by soaking it in the SLIP2000 gas piston and choke tube cleaner for about 10-15 minutes, then rinsing it under cold water while gently scrubbing the little holes with a soft old tooth brush.
Then I thoroughly dry it with a soft towel and blow dry it on high heat for about 5 minutes until the piston is completely dry and VERY hot.
When hot, I take it outside and spray Break Free CLP inside, outside, and into all the little holes, then i spray some Break Free on my toothbrush and gently scrub inside each hole, inside the piston, and at the edges. Scrub for about 2 minutes, then pat dry.
Finally, I wipe it out with a fresh soft towel and it's ready to go directly back into the firearm. Note, if you go this route, you do not need any extra lubricant. I've found that its best to just use a very light film of lube on the piston, if you put excessive lube on there, it just provides more surface area for fouling to stick to.
The SLIP2000 does virtually nothing except loosen up the fouling, the piston doesn't come out looking as clean as in the pictures above. Break Free is the only thing I've found that works on it.
It may interest you to know that when I fire cheap shells like Federal Multi Loads (never putting that in my gun again), it tends to gum up the gas system much more than when I fire quality ammo like Winchester AA.
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