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Discussion Starter #1
Here's a way to mount more light on the FS2K, put a rail on the side and add a Surefire M971... The 'tape switch' cord needs to be secured better and the light forces a hot shell to drop on my thumb once in a while (I'm a lefty) but it works.

 

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I don't want this to sound the way it probably will, but that's not my intention....


Have you taken any low-light shooting classes, or done low-light shooting?

The reason I ask is that in the classes I've taken, I found out quickly that it's pretty easy to blind yourself when you flash to identify a target inside 25 yards with much over 65 lumens....the 90 lumen light I was using got taken off and replaced with a 65 lumen. The light was being reflected off of a target, and these weren't white targets, but subdued stuff.

Nice set up, and Surefire are THE weapon light manufacturers that everything else is judged against, but they do over hype their super lights a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I understand what you're getting at, I'm seriously rural so this light is for outside varmints, coyote and feral dogs principally, it's WAY too much inside a building, is more of a beam than a flood and will illuminate close range objects on a cloudy day! It's a little better than 250 yards from my back porch to the body of water predators have to skirt so they've got a fighting chance, in fact I wish I had the M981 light. I've got the Remington 870 Police Magnum, 20", ext. mag, etc, w/ a small light for repelling boarders here at Wayne Manor...

And before anyone preaches about legal niceties of eliminating problem critters at night I would ask them if they've ever lost any livestock to these predators as it's not pretty AND, if they were born on your place, the IRS says no deduction, no 'shrinkage', no expense, nothing...
 

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@ Templar,
This may not be good form, and I'll accept correction if it isn't, but I have a 120 Lumen light, and practicing with it, I'd say you are correct about splash from bright lights. I get around this by shining the light at about a 40 degree angle from horizontal. If needed, I can put the light on the BG's face in a flick of my wrist. But with the light on the floor, I can see everything and still be able to flash the guy in a fraction of a second.

@ topic

Often times though, people don't realize that flashlights are not to be left on the whole time. A flashlight that is left on is nothing more than a beacon to your position. Another thing, a bigger light just means that you have more weight on your gun, the more weight you have, the less manuverable it is. Light is right, bright is right. The Z series of Surefire lights are light and as bright as you'd ever need, I know they have some newer stuff, but man I love my Z.

Zhur

(not directed at anyone in the second part of the post, just some topical information)
 

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abh, for your intended use, you've obviously given it a lot of thought and you've got the equipment you need. :?

That's a nice set up for coyotes!

I've just seen guys slap the biggest effing light they can get on a weapon and think they're ready to do battle with the zombie hordes.......only to find out they don't have the right equipment... :oops:

Zhurdan is exactly right about not leaving the light on for defensive (or offensive use), you flash to identify, MOVE, then either flash to reaquire or shoot, then MOVE.

http://vickerstactical.com/Tips/whiteLight.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #6
We'll see how it goes, the light may wind up back on a 20" AR as it has user familiarity going for it now and seems to be easier to brace up on something with, like a deck rail or post, than the FN. Despite what many may claim, I'm not worth a damn at 200 yards offhand!

The bright light and lighted reticle is a great combination but I can see how too bright a light would cause all kinds of problems in close...
 

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That's the problem with shooting paper targets on a square range. If you leave the light on the paper or a white wall to long you will eventually blind yourself.

Try dealing with people (aggressive, non-compliant etc) in a CQB environment............. The more light the better.

65 lumens is on the low end of the low light useage level. Ever been on the other end of a bright light?

Generally speaking, if you know how to control the light source on any weapon system 250 lumens is not "too much" light on a dedicated weapon system.

Ask yourself what is the effective range of the weapon system your using. Can you ID threats at night at this distance? The light on your rifle needs to closely reflect your average engagement distances. A six volt light with your average bezel (6Z size) barely gets you ID capability beyond 35-40 yards, and we haven't even mentioned visual disorientation for the "bad guy" on the other end. The brighter the light probably the better. There are limits, but for overall cqb and open area work a nine volt turbo head is where it's at.
 
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