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I'm new to the scar family. What kind of kit and products are you all using to clean your scars? My rifle cleaning kit was purchased for a .22 back in the day. I've never owned anything as nice as a scar before and want to make sure I take really good care of it with quality cleaning/lube/etc.

thanks in advance from this newb :)
 

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For between most range trips I usually just pull a bore snake through my Scar 2-3 times. For a more thorough cleaning of the barrel after lots of rounds this is the method I follow with all of my long guns even if they aren't necessarily precision guns:



It’s long but a good video to help understand why you are doing what you are doing.

Basically you don't need/want to scrub the bore aggressively, it will wear down the rifling, throat, and crown areas. Less of a concern with the chrome plated Scar barrel but you can still shorten life if you keep hitting the throat/crown with the metal fittings on the end of a cleaning rod over and over. A bore guide is inexpensive and helps protect the throat area as well.

Let a mild solvent like Hoppe's #9 do the work for you, and only a few passes with a brush to break up big chunks and help distribute the solvent. Then just push patches until clean. Oh and you don’t have to use Parker Hale style jags, normal jags where you bayonet the patch still work just fine.
 

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Used to use Froglube then moved on to Fireclean. Fireclean has been working out well for me. I generally stay away from the all in one stuff but Fireclean is surprisingly effective as both solvent and lube.
 

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You'll likely find having an "AR" type chamber brush a helpful accessory. I (and a lot of others on this forum apparently) find it extra helpful to have a nice big spray can of "Gun Scrubber" on hand to blast-out nooks and crannies such as the trigger/hammer module in the lower with a polymer-safe solvent. Those are the two things that come to mind that others haven't already mentioned. Welcome to the SCAR party! :th_143:
 

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Fireclean, Hoppes, .22 brush, .22 bore snake, AR chamber brush, some dental tools, a stiff toothbrush, and lots of patches! Oh and maybe a nice clean microfiber cloth soaked in some regular CorrosionX to wipe the freshly cleaned gun with! If you want to take it to the next level and increase resell value get a composition book(school book) and record rounds fired, dates, cleaning dates, etc. It's like a service record for your car. It might sound stupid but I guarantee as the years go by you will be happy you did it. A properly maintained firearm will last practically forever.
 

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I will only clean my SCAR when the groups open up. I use a Possum Hollow bore guide, a Dewey cleaning rod and a Nylon brush soaked in Hoppes #9. Then run a few patches thru until they appear clean. If I get any indication of copper fouling I use Hoppes cooper solvent. Haven't had to use it yet < 300 rounds they my SCAR 16S. Then some dry patches followed by a light coat go Break Free CLP.
 

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I use fireclean but...does metal REALLY soak in anything?
Yes and no.....The microscopic fissures on the surface of the metal will hold molecules of oil, but oil eventually evaporates over time so it will disappear over time. Synthetic lubricants will last longer because of there evaporation rate is slower and surface adhesion is thicker. It's really a fine line between to much and to little oil. To little and it doesn't offer much protection, to much and it picks up contaminates and makes a gunky paste. My go to example is a cooking pan. If you used a stainless steel cooking pan over high heat without oil the food would stick to the pan.....If you add a little oil to the pan the food will not stick(or at least makes it easier to clean burnt on food). I'd recommend that everyone try different products for different firearms(metal surfaces) and find the one that works best for you. I use FrogLube, FireClean, Break-Free, Mil-comm TW23B, and Smooth-Kote for lubricating semi auto rifles and pistols. I use different products like heavy greases on my bolt action rifles that would cause malfunctions on semi-autos. So getting back to the question "does metal really soak in anything? I would say yes, but technically it doesn't.
 

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Yes and no.....The microscopic fissures on the surface of the metal will hold molecules of oil, but oil eventually evaporates over time so it will disappear over time. Synthetic lubricants will last longer because of there evaporation rate is slower and surface adhesion is thicker. It's really a fine line between to much and to little oil. To little and it doesn't offer much protection, to much and it picks up contaminates and makes a gunky paste. My go to example is a cooking pan. If you used a stainless steel cooking pan over high heat without oil the food would stick to the pan.....If you add a little oil to the pan the food will not stick(or at least makes it easier to clean burnt on food). I'd recommend that everyone try different products for different firearms(metal surfaces) and find the one that works best for you. I use FrogLube, FireClean, Break-Free, Mil-comm TW23B, and Smooth-Kote for lubricating semi auto rifles and pistols. I use different products like heavy greases on my bolt action rifles that would cause malfunctions on semi-autos. So getting back to the question "does metal really soak in anything? I would say yes, but technically it doesn't.
"Unlike other oils, FIREClean does not evaporate or burn off over time or due to abuse. The evaporation of oil is something we have all experienced, and again, thought it was normal."
FIREClean Extreme Performance Gun Oil | The Loadout Room
 

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"Unlike other oils, FIREClean does not evaporate or burn off over time or due to abuse. The evaporation of oil is something we have all experienced, and again, thought it was normal."
FIREClean Extreme Performance Gun Oil | The Loadout Room
I've been using FireClean for probably 2-3 years. I heard about it from some weird place. If I remember correctly it came from someones home. I was seriously blown away with how well it worked. I experimented with it a lot and have a system when I get a new gun. I first put it in my new gun in my ultrasonic cleaner to get rid of all cosmoline and other oils. Then I heat the new parts and paint on FireClean on with a foam paint brush. I leave the parts under a heat lamp for 24 hours then give the parts another coat with the brush. Leave for another 24 hours under the heat lamp and lastly wipe down with a microfiber cloth. I know it sounds strange but it WORKS! I like to experiment and with the method I mentioned above it's like I dipped the gun in teflon. I shoot a LOT and mostly with a suppressor so I get a lot of carbon cake. All I need to do is give the gun a wipe with a paper towel to clean it. I get asked a lot which is the "best" product and my reply is FireClean for semi's and Spartan Accuracy oil & grease for bolt actions.
 
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I used to use ballistol and hoppe 9 but those leave the entire place stinking like a chem lab. Part of the reason why I switched to froglube and then fireclean is because those don't smell.
 

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You want to get a good torque wrench. The experts agree that you want to pull the barrel off for each and every cleaning.

Use a one piece cleaning rod, bronze brush, and MPro7 for cleaning. Use whatever your favorite oil is for lube, it doesn't get that dirty and only needs a few drops.
 

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You want to get a good torque wrench. The experts agree that you want to pull the barrel off for each and every cleaning.

Use a one piece cleaning rod, bronze brush, and MPro7 for cleaning. Use whatever your favorite oil is for lube, it doesn't get that dirty and only needs a few drops.
Obviously you are joking!
 
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