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Thanks for the great info! But.....First does the dye go all the way though the plastic? What if it gets dinged or nicked... Second does solvent, oil, sweat, etc. leech out the dye from the plastic stock later, onto the operators clothes and or skin?????
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I already have minor scrathes on mine and they are still black. I would surmize that the process goes pretty deep. You would have to cut into really deep to expose green. No solvent will interfere with it. It will not rub off or peel off or sratch off. It is a molecular/chemical impregantion that is PERMANENT.

If you get cuts that expose green, you can touch it up with this:

Forever Black
http://www.foreverblack.net

There was one member on the fivesevenforum that did not get great results. That is because he did not follow instructions and used hot water.
He later spary painted his gun. UGH!

You must use BOILING water. Also, use just enough water to submerge the parts. Any more than that and the solution will be too week.

TH
 

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Rather than 4 bottles of black liquid Rit dye, has anyone tried 3 bottles of black liquid rit dye and 1 bottle of dark green liquid rit dye?

This trick has worked for the HKs and I figure, why not the PS90? I know the plastic itself is already green, but its already dyed green. I think that you need to mix in dark green with the black liquid dye to cut out the purple hue. It's like mixing paints versus layering the paint on the wall. Mixing blue and yellow paint gets you green, but if you paint blue over a yellow wall, you won't necessarily get green.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
YES! Good point!

I actually state that in point 3 of the application section of the web page.

I used 4 of black and 1/2 of green, since the stock is allready green and not gray.

I experimented with the 3/1 and some sections had a bit of a brown hue to them. (I think this is due to too much green)

The best results were with 4 and 1/2.

I will make changes to "What you need section" to make that point clear.

Good post!

TH
 

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I've been thinking about taking apart my frame just to clean it and degrease the factory lube (which attracts sand and grit). It'd be too tempting to dye it black... LOL.
 

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hello everyone,

im definitely gonna try dying mine like Thermallator says to. if i mess it up (God forbid), Thermallator will know what to do. :wink:

-max
 

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Top Notch

Top Notch is offering the Dye method. Here is what they have to say:

"TRUST IT TO A PROFESSIONAL TO DOES IT EVERYDAY."

I never knew it takes a professional "to does" dunk a bunch of plastic in Rit dye. This process MUST be black magic that only "Professionals" can perform.

If you want to pay though - here's the link:

http://www.top-notchparts.com/ps90.htm

-TH
 

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Claims claims claims

Here's an image of their stuff that is "glistening" in the sun. Do you notice the spotty maps, and dark/light areas? Yeah, that is because they most likely did not degrease and/or clean the surface properly.

The old addage applies here. If you want to have it done right, you have to do it yourself.


 

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YUK! :x i'll just do it myself. i dont think anyone wants the stock to come out more perfect than i do. i'll give it the "tlc" it needs. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hoover 1 said:
What a great post!

Still waiting for my green PS90 to come in and seriously considering dying the stock black.

Would it be possible to get higher resolution versions of the photos in the FAQ section (http://ps90forum.com/Black.html)? There are some details that I would like to look at.

Thanks,

Hoover
[email protected]
The reason the pictures are small is for load times. We get 500 unique visits and about 5,000 page loads - the dye black process being one of the most popular.

If you would like additional photos, I can take them and post them on this thread. Just let me knwo what you need to see and I'll snap it.

welcome to the forum!

Cheers,

-TH
 

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Thanks for the welcome. Looks like this is a nice site where one can ask questions.

I am considering dying my PS90 (when I finally get it :cry: ) and would like some close ups of the interior of the stock halves, specifically the selector/safety region, trigger and the selector/safety switch/springs/pins.

My fear is taking the stock apart and not knowing where all the parts go. Been there, done that on other weapons. LOL :oops: .

Thanks,

Hoover
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hoover 1 said:
Thanks for the welcome. Looks like this is a nice site where one can ask questions.

I am considering dying my PS90 (when I finally get it :cry: ) and would like some close ups of the interior of the stock halves, specifically the selector/safety region, trigger and the selector/safety switch/springs/pins.

My fear is taking the stock apart and not knowing where all the parts go. Been there, done that on other weapons. LOL :oops: .

Thanks,

Hoover
That part is really easy. I do not feel like dissasembling the weapon again - but if you run into trouble - I will, and take more photos - and walk you through it if I cannot solve it for you right here verbally.

TRUST ME! It's simple.

-TH
 

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Hi, first off all great site! 8) I just send my PS90 stock to Ed at Homeland Defense And Police Supply Corp. http://www.hdps.org/ to have him dye it black. His price is "reasonable" at $60 if he is actually using a industrial dye. I personally don’t want to deal with the home made dyeing, although I believe it would work just as good…. I had Top Notch dye my HK SL8 back in the days and it turned out a little purple, so I would not necessarily recommend them. I let you know how my HDPS Black PS90 turns out and will post a picture when I get it back.
 
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