If you have a Dremel and some patience you can do it your self (mount a light in the forend). Matt at UERT (really helpful guy! Great slings!) let me know the basic method.
1) Remove the forend..
2) Take it apart, two nuts/bolts.
3) The interior is marked for cut outs on the dividers.
4) Remove the plastic down to the marks (Dremel with sanding drum is what I used).
5) Place a Surefire G2 with 5" tape switch ( Tape Part # G2PTT5 ).
6) Open the drain hole at the rear of the forend a bit and run the switch to just below the trigger.
With a bit of patience and some minor adjusting of the fit you can be done in about 20 minutes. Thought mine looked great! And for CQB it is inline with the barrel so is dead on in aim. For about $34 for the Surefire and $25 for the switch and some of your time I thought it was worth it!
There is a small gap on the end of the Surefire G2 between the end cap and the main body of the light with the Tape switch mounted, that gap lines up with the second internal divider in the forend. In my forend ( I suspect all of them ) you Dremel the front of the forend, then the middle divider is already inlet, the third divider will line up with that gap on the light. If you inlet it slightly less than the body of the light it won't come out, and yes, that means if the batteries give it up out comes the allen wrench and 10 minutes to change the batt's..
First-Samco makes a pressure switch for the G2 which is pretty easy to install. It requires you to remove the tailcap's internals. But since it will be installed into the hand guard, it is perfect. The length is perfect as well. It comes right out of the hand guard's drain hole, and is activated by upward pressure of your middle finger knuckle.
1. Order an extra forearm from FN - they're only $10.00.
2. Cut/sand and fit, cut/sand and fit... Go slowly and you will have better results - a tighter fit will be more secure.
3. Get the Surefire G2 LED model, it's a bit more $ ... BUT, the light is very bright and they last MUCH MUCH longer than the halogen (less hassle/longer run-times btwn battery changes).
I also drilled a couple small holes that straddle the wire/pressure switch, then used a small zip-tie (secured on the inside) to hold the wire tight against the forearm - less likely to snag on you or your gear.
Pretty much the same procedure as everyone.
A few more things to consider :
a) Not all flashlight can change batteries by removing the bezel at the front. Make sure you use one, otherwise you will have to take the handguard apart everytime the batteries run out.
b) I also change the front bezel to a tactical head
c) Replace the original bulb with a 250+ lumens CREE LED
d) Dual mode (constant on or strobe) tail switch