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Hmmm... this has me thinking... if the bolt carrier does impact the rear stock mount, why would I want it colliding with metal instead of plastic? I can replace the plastic easily and cheaply enough and return my Scar to working condition. But if I am slamming into an aluminum part that offers far less shock absorption than plastic, what kinds of other damage or wear would I be doing to the BCG and other Scar upper parts that might not be as easy to detect or as inexpensive to replace?
 
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I got my HANDL hinge in trade for some pmags. Yes. I think they are too expensive. But I did want it. Now yes. I needed a drill bit as the stock assy does not really have it so you punch out roll pin and reuse. If you do drill your factory hinge. I wouldn't use the factory hinge again. I'd probably only buy the HANDL hinge if my factory hinge was worn, cracked, broke. Or.... If I wanted to have the combo of a HANDL hinge, with Tango Down alum latch button. Which is what I'm doing.
 

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I've used all of the above. Pre-ECP button(I broke 2 in 6 years). ECP button never broke. But I used the ECP the least. It didn't exist when I bought my Tango Down 4 years ago. Since I like the textured feel of the TD button. I kinda wanted to roll with it. But after breaking a cheek piece and seeing minimal posts on possible breakage/wear of hinge. I figured why not? Metal on metal. I'm game to try it. Not just use a pithy comeback for why I am not using this vs. that. Being .mil and hearing every type of "fact", I've learned to trust my use and experiences with whT I've handled. I buy all kind of PMM, TD, Stryker. And others until I find what I like. I love my 16s. And 17s. I'll never sell. I wanted to keep em holding tough. Not really a fanboy of any one company. I love every manufacturer that likes the same rifle I love. Now having gotten all sappy. I can tell you this HANDL hinge with TD button locks up tight. You have to positively push in button. I will fire on Saturday and see if any thing feels different. I have many buttstocks. I can swap and see if that is even a consideration.

disclaimer: if you are a monkey with a hammer. You may mess up some plastic. Take your time. Also. An employee that facebooked me after seeing them around forwarded HANDL's work phone to his home to help me 2 nights ago if I had issues. He was insanely helpful and didn't push anything on me. I appreciated the help. It is lacking elsewhere with others.

From left to right. Pre ECP. ECP button. HANDL w/TD
 

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Bottom of stock assy showing roll pin where inserted at factory. It stops against top where enclosed which you can see it top of stock in photo below. These are not meant to swap parts mainly. You can buy a few individual stock parts but anything with hinge would require warranty, or complete stock assy purchase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Hmmm... this has me thinking... if the bolt carrier does impact the rear stock mount, why would I want it colliding with metal instead of plastic? I can replace the plastic easily and cheaply enough and return my Scar to working condition. But if I am slamming into an aluminum part that offers far less shock absorption than plastic, what kinds of other damage or wear would I be doing to the BCG and other Scar upper parts that might not be as easy to detect or as inexpensive to replace?
The bolt carrier slams into the recoil spring plate. Maybe buffertech should come up with a shock buff like the ones they have for the fal and ak
 

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One of my former Soldiers is going places and is issued a MK17. He has broken his cheek riser(like me), and a front sight. And his fellows want a pmag accepting lower. I think it's neat how different markets now drive the .mil, and not just the opposite.
 

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So it had an inferior button, change was requested, change happened. One of my 18 series friends said that button and the reciprocating handle is the chief complaint amongst his detachment.
Is that they don't like any reciprocating handle at all and want it completely deleted like an AR?

Or is that they just don't like the shape of FN charging handle?
 

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I pulled the moving parts assembly out of one of my 17's and compressed it till coil bind of the spring and it took considerable force to reach spring coil bind. I don't know how many pounds of force it was, maybe someone with a appropriate scale could test and report back with a number. I really don't think the end of the bolt is making contact with the polymer part in question due to the coil bind stack, it's just the force that the spring pressure is causing on the recoil rod assembly causing the flex over many, many cycles that may be the cause of the material fatigue that we have seen, that being said, I don't think that the metal on metal contact will be a issue. But if it is a possible fix could be to stack a correct number of small O-rings over the rod and under the spring, making sure not to cause a short stroking problem. Just a thought.
 

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I do notice that while shooting suppressed that recoil is a bit sharper.
This is your problem. If your recoil is increased when you run then can, then you are overgassed. When you are overgassed the BCG violently slams into the hinge plate. After firing 500 rounds while overgassed I could certainly see this developing a crack as you are subjecting it to stresses it was not designed for.

Both my Scar 16 and 17 were overgassed with both the factory 16" and factory SBR barrels, with and without two different suppressors.
FN cannot account for all of the ammo and suppressor variances out there, so they overgas the rifle from the factory to ensure it doesn’t short stroke and have misfeed issues.

I would recommend measuring your existing GCS size using small drill bits, and then ordering a few sizes smaller from MGW. When they arrive install one size smaller, load a single round in a mag and ensure it locks back on empty. Repeat this, going smaller in size until it will not lock back, then go back up one size. Do this without the can on the normal setting, and with the can on the suppressed setting to find a good middle ground.

Once you have the right size GCS the rifle will fire much more smoothly, recoil will be reduced with the can, and you will no longer have the BCG slamming into the hinge plate.

Some info about different GCS sizes here: http://fnforum.net/forums/sbr-suppr...rol-screw-scar-17s-run-better-suppressor.html
 

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I pulled the moving parts assembly out of one of my 17's and compressed it till coil bind of the spring and it took considerable force to reach spring coil bind. I don't know how many pounds of force it was, maybe someone with a appropriate scale could test and report back with a number.
Do that on top of a body weight scale. No special tool is really needed.
 

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is this for just shorter barrels or is the gas block setting functional on a standard barrel?
I have a SC Omega coming and hope to not have such over gassed issues........
 
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