FN Herstal Firearms banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys

Sorry if this is in the wrong place if so please let me know where to post this

I have an Fn browning hi power which is parkerized over the years it has started fade and getting holster wear.

I have googled on how to home parkerize but all of the guys used chemicals that's not pure and the turn out wasn't so great, I have bought pure othophosphirc acid 85% and also manganese dioxide powder all pure and clean with no added chemicals

I test parkerized a few parts some came out wonderful others not so good the texture would be wrong, fading to quickly ect.

I used 1lt filtered water 30grams of PA 85% 50grams of MD

Sand blasted all the part cleaned properly

Just would like help if any one here does parkerizing or knows of some one that can help

If the mixtures are correct and
Exactly what basting media should I use
I used soda blasting or the test parts.

I do not want park the gun until I'm 100% sure everything is correct.

Would like to keep the gun in good shape it's lasted 50years already and would like to keep it another 50

Will post pics of the test parts later

In advance thank you for any help




As you can see the slide lock and ambi saftey came out great
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,286 Posts
We'll your more involved in the process than I was but my experience didn't fair we'll.
JIMO ... I would send it out my self, the least little imperfection will / could cause blemishes not necessarily when done but as the weapon heats up under fire . I had a new barrel bleed a contaminate right through as it heated up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
876 Posts
Lauer Black Dip Parkerizing Pre-Treatment Solution
Lauer Manganese Phosphate Parkerizing Solution
Lauer Parkerizing Post-Treatment Solution
Stainless Steel Pot from Walmart that you will never use for anything else
Pure Steel Wool
Two clear PEX plastic bins
One gallon of acetone
Sand blasting cabinet with 70grit aluminum and either another sandblasting cabinet with Baking Soda or empty first cabinet and fill with baking soda.
Ultrasonic cleaner if possible
Cookie sheet
Deep metal baking pan
Non-Synthetic motor oil
Candy temperature gauge
Stainless tongs
Chemical gloves
3M Respirator
Wife and children out of house for the day!


First make sure the item is carbon steel. If it's aluminum or stainless steel it can't be parkerized!


Here are the steps I follow.
Sand blast all the nicks, scratches, paint, etc off the gun. I use two grits for the sake of speed. The aluminum quickly removes the nicks, dings, dents, paint, and scratches. Then I put the part in my ultra sonic cleaner to remove all the aluminum oxide from all the nooks and crannies. After a good hour of cleaning I use my compressor to blast all the water off and make sure it's completely dry. Then I put it in the baking soda cabinet and sand blast it again till I get a perfectly uniform appearance. I then put it in the ultra sonic cleaner again to clean it and then dry it. After the part or parts are dry I put them in a bucket of acetone and while wearing gloves clean them with a sterile rag I have for this exact process. I then take them all out and put them on that cookie sheet and bake them at 250-300 for an hour. This lets all the oils and crap come out. Depending on how much comes out of the metal I might do the following step twice. I pull the parts and give them a look over for where and how much crap has leeched out. If it looks good I them give them one last acetone cleaning and then a quick baking again to insure that the parts are completely dry and oil free. Now the parts are ready to be parkerized!
Follow the directions on the parkerizing products. Dunk the part in the clear plastic bin of black dip for a little bit. Then in the stainless steel pot with the parkerizing agent. Then then in the clear plastic bin of post treatment. After the parts cool down in the post treatment oil. I then do the following extra step. I put the parts in that deep baking pan and make sure they are completely submerged in motor oil. I then bake at 375 for an hour. Yes it is going to smell like burnt motor oil. After a good 2 hours or so I carefully remove the pan and let it sit somewhere safe until the next day. I then remove the parts and with either paper towels or clean cloths wipe all the oil off the parts. The parts will look as good if not better then factory. They will have a super black finish that looks like they were melonited. The motor oil baking bath that I added to the process really lets the parts suck in oil.
I have tried just about every finishing technique out there and if you want a super back parkerized finish the above is the way to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
Wow Justin that sounds like an intense process. I would have to do several guns at a time to make that worthwhile.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
I have parked myself and with a professional, it is very involved so it comes out right, I have to say the most important part is clean, clean, clean, and your bare fingertips are your worst enemy.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top