How hard is it to strip a Scar 17?
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Lower is easy, no idea on the upper though
Ya, completely removing everything. i do have a torque wrench, but I'm more worried about what goes where and what order things need to be removed or assembled. Needing to get the upper/lower completely stripped for a cerakote job. (Love my black Scar17... but man does it heat up in the summer. Thinking I'll get it Magpul FDE color)
Why dont you just buy a Fde scar...? Seriously though i think all or at least some of the torx screws in the upper were assembled with locktite. So you need to heat them up a tad. Some have used soldering iron or heat gun. After that make a diagram or color code the locations for each screw.
What type of torque wrench do you have?
What type of torque wrench do you have?
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If your going to that work - go for multicam or anything but another flat color.
Wheeler torque wrench. I just don't have $3500+ to spend on another Scar, Geissele trigger, optic, and SBR tax stamp. Wanting to just get mine cerakoted so everything matches, but also because it's an SBR.
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Not impossible, but you need heat(all fasteners but Barrel screws are installed with green loctite) for removing the 2.5 and 3 mm Allen screws, I had to remove the rear buttplate and twisted through one of the 2.5 like butter, drilled it out by hand--came out fine but I used quite a bit of nutt-sack taking that chance.
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2,012 Posts
With a good heat gun, loosening the bolts, shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.
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Kind of surprised I wasn't able to find a single youtube video on this. I guess that goes to show how hard it is.
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+1 otherwise I think its too much work to justify doing it.
It's not hard; just don't force any of the bolts. I used a small torch like one you'd get at a kitchen supply store and heated the bolts until I heard a slight crackle of the loctite bubbling. They came right out after that. The main problem area is the hex bolts on the sides at the rear of the receiver (right before where the stock attaches). Their small size combined with liberal use of green loctite at the factory equals a lot of stripped screws. Read through the numerous threads from people who stripped them while trying to install the GG&G rear QD mount and you'll see what I mean. If they're being stubborn, add more heat before you add more force. Obviously don't apply heat to any screws that go through the plastic rail sections or you'll end up with a gun that looks like a Salvador Dali painting.
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OP I maybe considering the same thing for my SCAR later down the road. The only thing that gets me sketched is the proper torque for each bolt is it like the barrel screws where it's like 62lbs. On top of that the exrtractor and rails. But if there the same torque should be easy, just bring the heat with the wrench.
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