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How do I do it?...I want to reload the 5.7, I have a bunch of brass saved up. What's a decent rig to start doing my 5.7's with out going crazy? maybe some 9mm too but it's still pretty cheap to buy factory, but 5.7 for sure.
 

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A lot of leople start with Dillon reloaders. My brother loads his 45ACP on it. The reloaders are cheap enough he's going to mount three or four next to each other. One for 9mm, 223, snd 40SW. He says it will save time rather than changing dies and stuff all the time. I'll probably start reloading this year some time.

TA
 

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This is not a round for a beginner......but if you are going do it i say get a single stage rcbs because dillon dont make shell plates for a 5.7x28 so that is a big project in its self.......just sell your used brass dude there is little to no load data for the five seven that is a BIG problem since if you go .2grains to high on a load you will ruin your gun...
 

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I PM'd Wildeye11 and panachbeachbum to come answer some of these new reloading threads. Those 2 know how to do it well. Hopefully we see them soon :)
 

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I agree start with a single stage press, I am using the rcbs dies and shell holder for my 5.7 reloading

get a good scale and a powder trickler if you dont already have one also case lube, I like the stuff in the tub hornady sells , has lanolin in it and you just roll the cases in your hand to lubricate
Def need a powder funnel and a loading block to hold the cases between the various operations. A primer tray is very handy to flip primers, most presses have a provision to seat primers but I like the rcbs hand priming tool, you might want to buy two shell holders , one for the press and one for the priming tool. Other than the dies everything will be usable on other calibers so those are one time purchase items. Most of the big 3 or 4 reloading manufacturers offer most or all of these items so pretty much pic the one you like. I am still using and old rcbs press I bought in one of the reloading starter packages 20 yrs ago.

The 5.7 does seem to be touchy on the near max load end of the spectrum with most of the bullet/powder combos as mentioned above so be carefull .
I have been working with heavier subsonic loads using blue dot and have been pleased so far. Works pretty well with 45 gr win sp also but I cant acheive velocities anywhere near what some of the folks are getting with hs6 and other powders. Havent found any hs6 yet to experiment.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the feedback...I'm very interested in loading subsonic loads using 55gr bullets. I will try to research much on the right data. I'm interested in the new can that mounts over the P90's flash hider I've read about.
 

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Muzzel said:
Thanks for the feedback...I'm very interested in loading subsonic loads using 55gr bullets. I will try to research much on the right data. I'm interested in the new can that mounts over the P90's flash hider I've read about.
Those are fake cans. I hadn't seen a REAL one that does that without actually threading onto a barrel.
 

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I have been lucky in certain aspects regarding the reloading of the 5.7 and I will explain further after touching on points that panaceabeachbum and the others mention.



Of the equipment needed here are the four most important items to begin with.....they cost the most, but you will recoup the cash after reloading a few hundred rounds.

1- Press...go with either RCBS, Dillon or Hornady- Dillon are the best which means the price will be higher. I- here is one of the ucky parts...I already had a single stage RCBS press and later upgraded it to a progressive one. Actually I went with RCBS with all my components, you do not have to- I just did because I wanted to make sure I had no issues with compatibility from one item to the next.

2- Dies...only two Mfg. that I know right now that offer them in the 5.7 are RCBS and Hornady. I picked up the RCBS ones, DO NOT get or use the small base die- this die is designed to size the body of cases somewhat smaller and set the shoulder back slightly more than a regular full-length sizer die- this small base die kept crushing the brass and will not work!! Get the full-length 2 die set or the Neck sizer die set only if you want to form fire. Here is the link to the dies on Midwayusa. I go to them for all my items.

http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?TabID=1&Categoryid=9879&categorystring=9315***731***702***8344***9261***


3- Powder dispenser (measure).....you have a crap load to choose from, again I went with RCBS.... I have also spent tons of time on the phone with RCBS…regarding their powder dispensers-providing suggestions, pointing out compatibility issues and etc. When it comes to powder dispensers....I highly highly recommend the Little Dandy Powder Measure. The Uniflow sucks- at least it did for me. The Uniflow has to many factors that can and will contribute to throwing inaccurate charges each time. The Little Dandy is EXCELLENT- the use of the rotors is a much better design than their Uniflow and regardless of what RCBS tells you it does fit on the Piggy back system.

4- Scale...do not skimp out with the funds regarding scales, I did and ended up having to buy 4 scales all together. Again- a crap load to choose from…and again I went with RCBS. I like the electronic ones better than the manual type.

The next items are also needed but are not set in any order-and again a crap load to choose from.

5-Caliper
6-Tumbler & media
7-Case Trimmer

The following are lower in priority- but still need at some point...

8-case lube
9-reloading trays
10-primer,de-primer tools

Now on to the specific data for the 5.7, of three things...projectile, powder and primer. The most important is the powder; at least I think it is. I know for sure the projectiles and what powder type and charge weight that FN used/uses.

I have this info with photos posted already under the "5.7 AMMO DESIGNATIONS AND VELOCITIES FROM FN-STYLE WEAPONS" that was posted initially by Lord Skeletor

When I started reloading the 5.7 in 04' there was not even a whisper of what type or what was used to reload this round. I thought it best to use the exact powder and amounts that FN used, since they had done all the pressure tests and etc. So I made it a personal quest to get FN's data for myself- I had more than an interest in the 5.7 round since first finding out about the P90 in 93' after picking up the 3rd Edition of the Gun Digest book of Assault Weapons. So, I called, I emailed, I surfed, and called many more times..even talk to two ballistic techs at FN in Belgium!!!!

FN used and uses a Powder Manufacture for all of their 5.7 rounds called PB Clermont site:
http://www.pb-clermont.be/ which is a subsidiary of Eurenco groupe SNPE from Belgium. This parent company also controls EURENCO Bofors- which is Alliant Powder in the USA, EURENCO Vihtavuori- which is Vihta Vuori distributed via Kaltron-Pettibone in the USA and EURENCO France- which is PB Clermont. PB Clermont distributes their powder via Western Powders by the brand of RAMSHOT.

Till this day I still do not know what primer that FN uses. I have tried both small rifle, small pistol and small magnum pistol primers. I have tried ALL of the different Winchesters primers, and the same for Federal, I have stuck with Winchester small magnum pistol.

So, here is what powder charged is used for each of their specific rounds......use this as a guide line for the type and weight of the bullet you want to use.

SS190- 32 grn. bullet- 6.0 grains of Silhouette(plain tip) 6.5 grains-True Blue(black tipped)
SS191- 32 grn. bullet- 6.0 grains of Silhouette(plain tip) 6.5 grains-True Blue(red tipped)
SS192- 28 grn. bullet- 6.5 grains of True Blue
SS193- 55 grn. bullet- 2.0 grains of Silhouette
SS195- 28 grn. bullet- 6.5 grains of True Blue
SS196- 40 grn. bullet- 4.0 grains of True Blue
SS197- 40 grn. bullet- 5.5 grains of True Blue

Here is the lucky part for me and you...... DO NOT EXCEED 7.5 grains of either of the Silhouette or True Blue when using a 40 grain bullet. I did- I went up to 8 grains and here is what happened. I had the 8 grains with the V-max loaded into an unfired SS195 case- upon pulling the trigger of my PS90 all at once I received a massive blast of pressure and unignited powder to my face, a sharp pain in my chest and load crack from the rifle. I looked into the breach area and saw the bolt was not all the way closed and that the case was still in the breach-but the back end was completely blown off with the primer missing..actualy it wasn't missing just somewhere else.... I took the PS90 apart and realized that there was little damage to the rifle.. only a small nick/gouge on the plastic door cover of the case ejection area. I had to use a cleaning rod to un jam the case out of the breach/barrel area. I was then told by my fellow shooting partners that I had blood spots on my shirt center of chest area. Guess where the primer "shrap metal" was found. I had expericence in extracting pimples in this same spot while a teenager...so this worked well to get the brass out. I havn't enough nerve to load up past 7.5 grains using a lighter bullet than the 40 grn V-max...........at least yet.

Hope this helped-
Wil
 

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There is some good info here - despite the side topic of the suppressor talk, I made this a sticky to help others if this comes up again.
 

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OK I'll bite.

Why a single stage press and not a progressive one?

I have been wanting to get back into reloading since the late 60's. My uncle is the one who taught me to reload on a single stage press but by the time I price all the stuff that I need, I am well above the price of a progressive.

Well anyways, this is what I am looking at. I do not like the 'kits' as they have good presses but provide other less than desirable stuff. Most of the stuff I am looking at is RCBS.

Press - RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme
Primer - RCBS APS Press Mounting Primer Tool
Primer Loader - RCBS APS Strip Loader (with primer strips)
Scale - RCBS Charge Master 1500 with Powder Dispenser
Case Trim - RCBS Trim Pro Manual Case Trim Kit
Case Prep - RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center 110 Volt
Case Cleaner - RCBS Vibratory Case Cleaner & Media Sifter
Case Media Seperator - RCBS Rotary Case and Media Separator
Loading Blocks - I'll make my own out of wood
Case Lube - Hornandy Unique 4 oz Lube Tube
Dial Calipers - Frankford Arsenal Electronic Caliper 6" Stainless Steel
Dies - Hornady New Dimension Custom Grade Nitride 3-Die Set 38 Special,
357 Magnum, 357 Maximum
Hornady Shellholder #6
RCBS 2-Die Set 5.7x28mm FN
RCBS Shellholder #45 (5.7x28mm FN)
Hornady New Dimension Custom Grade Nitride 3-Die Set 9x18mm
(9mm Makarov)
Hornady Shellholder #8
Misc - Hornady Sure-Loc Die Locking Ring 7/8 x 14 Thread
RCBS Formula 1 Brass Cleaning Media Walnut Hull 4 lb
Hornady Die Locking Ring Wrench
Lyman E-ZEE Powder Funnel 22 to 45 Caliber
Loadbooks USA "9mm Luger" Reloading Manual
Loadbooks USA "357 Magnum Handgun and Rifle" Reloading Manual


And of course you need the reloading powder, bullets, primers, ect....

The above is close to about $1000 and there are progressives that are less expensive.

I am not commited to RCBS or any other brand, I just want good to excellent reloading equipment.

Comments are welcome as well as advice on alternatives to lessen the cost of the above.

Also, if I left anything out, let me know.

TIA
 

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Even with a progressive, you'll need most of the stuff you list above.

Why a single stage to begin with? Because you need to learn how to reload. What to do, why you do it, and with a single stage you are able to easily check your loads. If you just jump in with a progressive, you will find that you have a lot, and I mean a LOT, of bad ammo to start, and perhaps even some dangerous stuff.

Learn what you are doing first, then spend the extra for a progressive. You will always find a use for the single stage.

I have 2 progressive and 6 single stage presses... Care to guess which one's I use the most? It takes more time to set up a progressive to start loading, than it does for me to do a hundred rounds on a single stage. So, if I'm only doing a few, I just pull the lever more times.

I also prefer to do my primer seating with a hand tool, that way I can feel the primer bottom out in the pocket. With a progressive press, you have less sensativity and 'feel.'

This caliber must be trimmed every firing, so after you figure in the time involved with trimming and hand seating the primers, you save very little in time with a progressive. Other calibers that don't have to be trimmed as often (9mm, 45, etc) are what progressive's were designed for. By and large, rifle is still done on a single stage because of the trimming issue. Bottlenecked cases really are a PITA to reload.

Also, if you change one single, tiny variable on a progressive, you are going to have to start fresh again.

Don't worry about colors when it comes to reloading tools. Some people like Red, some blue, some green. Last night I was bored (and imbibing) and decided to make all my reloading equipment the same color. SO I painted it all with DyKem...blue :) Now, all my presses are the same color as my Dillon's..
 

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This is not a round for a beginner......but if you are going do it i say get a single stage rcbs because dillon dont make shell plates for a 5.7x28 so that is a big project in its self..
I'm having a buddy machinist knock one or 2 out for me... once the design is programmed, it won't be hard to make them. We may market the plates depending on costs of manufacture... of course we'll see how well they work. He's also making the case feed ramp for me. I load on a XL650 and as fast as I shoot the 5.7, a single stage would kill me, but the prepping isn't gonna be quick either.... kinda like sorting out the crimped .223, depriming and swaging the primer pockets individually, then trimming ain't fun either...
 

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there is little to no load data for the five seven that is a BIG problem since if you go .2grains to high on a load you will ruin your gun...
for those who plan on reloading i suggest using a powder with a burn rate sized the the capacity of the brass you dont want to use a powder that only fills a little of the case i usually go 3/4 or so with a powder as such you have more room for error and less chance of either a low load and a stuck round or to high of pressures and blowing up your gun


NOTE: this is just my opinion and this method hat treated me well in past reload experience, take it with a grain of salt i dont want to offend people.
 
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