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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone having problems with jamming? If my gas control valve is on the original factory seeting my rifle does not feed correctly. For some reason the cradle does not properly remove the round. When I place the valve on the alternate setting the gun works well most of the time still one instance of jamming. Anybody have a similar experience or have a remedy for the problem.
 

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I don't know anything about them. But how old is the gun? What type of ammo where you shooting? Did you try any other types? Has the gun been cleaned properly and no broken parts?
 

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It is my understanding that adjustment of that control is normal, depending on what ammo U are using.

If the gun functions on a different setting 100%, then that is fine.
 

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Ammo and other details

Bought the gun at the Wannamacher Show in Tulsa back in April. Shot the following through the gun: Radway Green 62 Grain. Przi Partisan 55 Grain, Sellier & Belloit 55 Grain and even a few Wolf steel case. It didn't matter what I used I still needed the alternate setting to make the gun cycle. As far as a thurough cleaning, no I have not completly broken down the gun for good cleaning. That should have been the logical next step. I'll let ya'll know how it turns out. Thanks for the replies.

Ten Mile
 

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FS2k Jamming

I've fired close to 1500 rounds out of my FS2K, the variety consisting of Remanufactured Hornady, American Eagle, Brown Bear, Wolf, S&B, and honest to god mil ball ammo I "procured" from the Guard, and Haven't had any problems of any sort. Haven't had to change the setting on my gas system from the "Normal" setting either.

If it makes a difference, only using Break Free/CLP, no teflon based lubes or anything else. Also make sure to take the thing completely down after every workout.

my 2 cents, for what it's worth...

Gregg
 

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FS2K jamming

Well Sh*t, guess ya got me there, but my gun still runs.

Gregg
 

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Only thing I've ever used on my FS is GI ball, Winchester contract. It runs like a charm...factory setting.
 

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Re: FS2K jamming

gregg877 said:
Well Sh*t, guess ya got me there, but my gun still runs.

Gregg


Hey it works well whatever they got in it. Just shake it well before use and it will keep them running.............................DJ
 

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FS2K Jamming Issues

Just as a way of covering my rear end, from my previous post, was referring to my PS90 manual, and on page 28 stats the following:

"Never use hydrocarbons, trichlorethylene, ammonia nor TEFLON BASED LUBRICANTS: they could casue damage to your carbine."

However, under the reccomended lube order on page 33, it says:

"FN Herstal reccomends using lubricant Nycolube 127 CLP or equivalent(reference US MIL-PRF63460 or NATO S-758)

For the US market, CLP is available under the following names and trademarks:

CLP-NC BREAK FREE INC( wow, how bout that, are they calling break free a non teflon lube then?)

SENT-CLP by Sentinel CANADA
ROYOCO-634 by royal lubricants co. INC.

Be aware that some lubricants can be harmful to the sufrace finish of the carbine..."

SO, I think in this case, I can be given the benefit of the doubt, given the poor translation. Admittedly I should read the can, but hey, guess you learn something new every day.

Gregg
 

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Teflon as an ingredient vs. "teflon dry lube"

Just a minor point of clarification: Teflon when added to an aproved lubricant is not likely to be problematic as it is pretty inert itself. However, teflon "Dry Lube" as sold in aresol cans (remington, hoppes etc) uses a highly volatile organic compund as a carier to suspend the teflon powder which dries quickly but can disolve and or craze (weaken with micro fractures) some plastics.

One of the great plusses of plastics is their resilince and resistance to typical forms of decay and age like rust and corrosion - but the big minus is that a plastic like pollycarbonate/lexan can seem industructable (literaly stopping bullet ipervios to powerful acids etc) clean it with i believe its methyl alcohol or isopropyl and your fine touch it with ethyl alcohol(i might of switched methyl and ethyl) and you quikly have junk on your hands. Swtich to lucit/arylic and any alcahol is safe but something else will be a problem.

Love my P90 but until fn were to tell us exactly what the magazine, stock and all the other parts and pieces are molded out of (I feel farily confident saying it is at least three different resins) - I would highly recomend sticking with what the manual recomends and not improvising for fear of short term or in some ways scarier - long term consequences. Engineered Polymers are super materials for their various applications but like Superman they each have their Kryptonite and sometimes its an everday item we don't even consider a "harsh chemical".

My 2 cents
 

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For what it's worth, I've only put a couple hundred rounds through my FS2000 and never had a problem until last week. I had been using American Eagle, but bought some Magtech from the range. I had 3 failures to eject out of 25 rounds. I then put American Eagle in the same mag and shot 25 with no problems. It was obvious that the American Eagle was loaded much hotter than the Magtech. They both functioned well in my Robinson XCR, but I don't think the Magtech had enough power to fully cycle the FS2000. The difference in recoil between the American Eagle and the Magtech was very noticable with each rifle.
 
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