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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been beat to death.....BUT

After reloading for almost 35 years I find it hard to swallow that 5.7x28 brass MUST be coated with Lacquer to function in weapons chambered for it.

A few thoughts, first of all it might not be a "scientific" observation but if you rub a new 5.7 round between your fingers and then compare it to a shiny brass 5.56mm casing I just removed from my Dillon vibrating tumbler the 5.56 case "feels slicker", MUCH SLICKER!

The Lacquer coating simply isn't that slick.

I've seen comments the coating is required for it to feed through the P90/PS90 magazine, I've also seen comments that it's required for extraction from the FiveseveN or the P90/PS90.

On the magazine thought, I run Man Kave rollers and Elite Ammunition extra power springs, that should overcome "drag" issues. If it's an extraction issue, why in the hell didn't FN flute the chamber to assist in extraction like HK does on many of their weapons.

I've seen nickel plated 5.7 brass and that should be "slicker" than the coating. Yet no one offers plated 5.7 brass.

I'm planning to REMOVE the coating from 50 pieces of 5.7 brass and polish the hell out of it. Then I'll run it to see how it runs. I'll also then know if it's a P90/PS90 magazine issue, a failure to extract issue, or maybe I'm completely wrong and the coating is absolutely necessary.

I've seen comments from 5.7x28 reloaders that they trash their brass when the coating is damaged, I've also seen attempts to re-coat the brass with various spray coatings.

Until I make my own mistakes I will continue to believe it's a myth.

Worst case scenario is I'm going to ruin 50 pieces of brass.

Unfortunately, it will be a couple of months before I can run this experiment due to several pressing issues but I will report back if it works or is an abysmal failure.
 

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Someone with a SS aftermarket barrel or if you don't mind ruining the hard chrome one can have the chamber fluted using the EDM method.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
That thought has crossed my mind.

Larue Tactical offers fluting in their chambers and I thought I might contact Mark Larue and ask who does the fluting for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Doesn't the coating, aide in the blowback design of the gun? Causing the brass to stay "tight" into the chamber as long as possible until pressure drops?
That's the first time I've heard that thought, BUT it makes the most sense of all the theories of heard.
 

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I reload 5.7x28 and had the same idea. I typically just clean out the primer pockets, give them a ten minute wash in Dawn dish soap before sizing. I know the dirt really doesn't make a reliability or accuracy difference, however once you start wet tumbling brass with SS pins it's nice to handle that clean brass.

Good luck getting that coating off. I got a few thousand empties, (About 1/3 of a five gallon bucket) I'm processing so I threw some in the wet tumbler it took off most of the coating, but not all. Next time I run some .223 brass I'll give them another shot.

I only shoot this round in an AR57 AR upper so my results may not apply. For the last run of reloads I left a thin coating of Franklin spray sizing lube on them. They shot and functioned just fine.
 

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Doesn't the coating, aide in the blowback design of the gun? Causing the brass to stay "tight" into the chamber as long as possible until pressure drops?
I have heard of casings having to be knocked out of a degreased pistol barrels as there was no micro oil film in the chamber. So normally I would disagree but maybe you're correct do to the bolt being so light.
 

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Knowledge that I have taken to heart and assume is required propects from reloading over 9K pieces of 5.7X28mm brass over the last 10 years:

The lacquer assist in loading the cartridges into the magazines.
The lacquer aids in the brass transitioning from the magazine into the firearm chamber (FiveseveN, PS90 and PS90 SBR)
The lacquer assist in the cartridge remaining seated into the chamber during pressure buildup
The lacquer assist in the removal of the used brass from the chamber of the firearm.

While I have very limited experiences with using brass that the lacquer coating has been removed from, my results indicated that the lacquer coating is a "must have" for optimal operation of the 5.7X28mm brass in the 5.7x28mm platform.*

Observations from the removal of the lacquer from the brass has left me with 5.7X28mm cartridges that fail to feed, fail to load properly, fail to eject properly. My advice on this subject is to leave the lacquwr intact on the brass

* This knowledge is based upon direct observation, speaking with other reloaders about this particular issue, Converaions with Bob Ailes, Tommy Thacker and other FNH USA personnel that I have had the opportuity to question about this very subject. The 5.7x28mm platform produced by FNH is Herstal Belgium and Fredericksberg, Virgnia
 

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Knowledge that I have taken to heart and assume is required propects from reloading over 9K pieces of 5.7X28mm brass over the last 10 years:

The lacquer assist in loading the cartridges into the magazines.
The lacquer aids in the brass transitioning from the magazine into the firearm chamber (FiveseveN, PS90 and PS90 SBR)
The lacquer assist in the cartridge remaining seated into the chamber during pressure buildup
The lacquer assist in the removal of the used brass from the chamber of the firearm.

While I have very limited experiences with using brass that the lacquer coating has been removed from, my results indicated that the lacquer coating is a "must have" for optimal operation of the 5.7X28mm brass in the 5.7x28mm platform.*

Observations from the removal of the lacquer from the brass has left me with 5.7X28mm cartridges that fail to feed, fail to load properly, fail to eject properly. My advice on this subject is to leave the lacquwr intact on the brass

* This knowledge is based upon direct observation, speaking with other reloaders about this particular issue, Converaions with Bob Ailes, Tommy Thacker and other FNH USA personnel that I have had the opportuity to question about this very subject. The 5.7x28mm platform produced by FNH is Herstal Belgium and Fredericksberg, Virgnia
Interesting part about feeding and that could affect my AK57 upper since it feeds from PS90 magazines.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
One thought that keeps running through my head...

FN has made it clear that they do NOT want reloaded ammunition used in their 5.7x28 weapons. I can understand that policy due to the round "being on the ragged edge".

So, is any of what they say deliberate disinformation to discourage (scare?) us out of reloading the round???
 

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Deliberate? Yes, most all manufactures do not want you to shoot reloads in any firearm. Not doubt that policy was a compromise with corporate lawyers who wanted to recommend never shooting your firearm at all.
 

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Well thank you! I am REALLY interested in the 5.7 and (I ‘m not really crazy) woke up last night wondering about the same thing.
I’d love to own one and do some handloading but that ” laquer” issue is very disturbing to me. I’ll look forward to your results.
 

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Interesting! Well my feeling is if I can’t make up my own loads ( really a big part of owning a gun ) why bother. And its not just a money thing. I just like it.
 

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I had a FN57 a few years back, I reloaded a lot of ammo for it. I used exclusively Ramshot Trueblue powder. I would just clean the cases in simple green, and rinse in hot water and let them dry in the sun, or just over night. I reloaded the cases 5 or 6 times, and most of them would have between 20-40% of the coating come off in the firing, cleaning, reloading process by the 5-6 load cycle.I never had an issue with feeding and ejecting. I only used the reloaded ammo for range work, and while I never had an issue with any of it, I only carried the factory stuff for SD. I found the 57x28 very economical to reload and I wouldn't shy away from owning one due to reloading cost or reloading issues.
 

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Well thank you! I am REALLY interested in the 5.7 and (I ‘m not really crazy) woke up last night wondering about the same thing.
I’d love to own one and do some handloading but that ” laquer” issue is very disturbing to me. I’ll look forward to your results.
Reloading for the 5.7x28 is the only way to get the rounds real potential. The coating on the brass is not a big issue as long as you just use water and simple green (and a ultrasonic cleaner if you have one) to clean the brass. Normal brass cleaning methods will remove the coating from the brass, and you will have FTE issues. Once the brass is cleaned it loads very similar to any other bottle necked case. You just have to be real careful of powder load levels as it is a high pressure round in a blow-back style action. If care is taken during the loading process, you can use the brass 5-6 times until it gets to the point of throwing it away. With the amount of stretching the brass does each time it is fired and the amount of trimming required the neck of the brass will start to thin out by that point anyways. The coating is required for proper function of the round, but it is not a hindrance when reloading. I am somewhere in the 3000-4000 reloaded rounds fired from my FsN, PS-90 and Banshee, and see reliability as good or better than factory loads (especially when considering the some of 40gr. garbage they put out).
 

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Well, I was about to go ALL-IN on reloading the 5.7x28 and even ordered a LABRADAR Chronograph. But now, after reading about possible KABOOMS I am officially concerned.
I’ve loaded 1,000’s of .223 and never had a single problem. I took my first batch of brass home, decapped it, cleaned it and when I started sizing I saw sports where the laquer was stripped.
I slathered the next ones with Lee’s case lube and a few were unstripped.
 

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Well, I was about to go ALL-IN on reloading the 5.7x28 and even ordered a LABRADAR Chronograph. But now, after reading about possible KABOOMS I am officially concerned.
I’ve loaded 1,000’s of .223 and never had a single problem. I took my first batch of brass home, decapped it, cleaned it and when I started sizing I saw sports where the laquer was stripped.
I slathered the next ones with Lee’s case lube and a few were unstripped.
If it is just a few spots where the coating is coming off, you likely are still ok to use the brass. I have some cases that are missing 15-20% of the coating, and they still function just fine. Lube and proper adjustment of the sizing die is important to keep as much of the coating as possible. Also need to be careful how long you leave the cases in the cleaner as I have found the combination of hot water and simple green will soften the coating if left in the cleaner too long. After the 2nd or 3rd loading there will be portions that come off.

As long as you are accurate on your powder load for each and every round that you load, 5.7x28 is no more difficult to load than .223 (except those small cases get to be a bugger to hold on to).
 
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