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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read the threads on the two ways that members have modified a USG Blackhawk Serpa to fit the MKII.

Frankly both were acceptable ways (heat gun) & (Dremel) but I have concerns in both methods. The heat gun method appears to me to be the better of the two, but if I was going to go that route I think I'd spend the $50 for a MKII holster mold to shape it. That should be the least invasive and the more accurate method

The Dremel method I had considered awhile back, but in taking measurements it appeared to me that it might leave some areas way too thin.

I have a THIRD idea I'm considering.

I have two USG Blackhawk Serpa holsters, I'm considering splitting both holsters, the belt side on one slightly to the outside of the centerline of the holster. On the other holster, split it slightly to the inside, towards the belt side of the holster.

Then use a high strength two part epoxy to join them together creating a wider single holster than they were originally.

Thoughts?
 

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Seems like a lot of work and its going to be very hard to get it just right. My method took maybe 10 min max, just drill out the end to give the rail little more clearance and stretch the end for the added width. Very simple, very easy. But, to each there own.
 

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I've read the threads on the two ways that members have modified a USG Blackhawk Serpa to fit the MKII.

Frankly both were acceptable ways (heat gun) & (Dremel) but I have concerns in both methods. The heat gun method appears to me to be the better of the two, but if I was going to go that route I think I'd spend the $50 for a MKII holster mold to shape it. That should be the least invasive and the more accurate method

The Dremel method I had considered awhile back, but in taking measurements it appeared to me that it might leave some areas way too thin.

I have a THIRD idea I'm considering.

I have two USG Blackhawk Serpa holsters, I'm considering splitting both holsters, the belt side on one slightly to the outside of the centerline of the holster. On the other holster, split it slightly to the inside, towards the belt side of the holster.

Then use a high strength two part epoxy to join them together creating a wider single holster than they were originally.

Thoughts?

As someone else said to each his own, but we are only talking 1.5mm on each side of the holster, as the difference in the slide is just la little over 3.2mm and I can assure you that the integrity of the holster is not compromised. Granted you can,t go ballistic with the dremel, you must do a little on each side and then check it.

That being said, I would love to see your modification if you do it. Please put pics up and if it works as you said, I might, if you are willing, have you do one for me. How do you think the strength will be affected by "gluing" the front half and back half together?

I have a Kimber Ultra Raptor II, which is a 1911 with a 3 1/2 inch barrel and of course serpa does not make a holster for that. It does fit in the standard 1911 serla, but there is almost 2" of holster that hangs past the barrel. I taped it off and very slowly and carefully cut it off and it works and looks great.

Have a great day
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
O.K., I decided being that I have two Blackhawk Serpa holsters for a USG 5.7 and I no longer own a USG I'd try modifying one of them.

The method I decided on was to file the inside of the holster, well after HOURS of filing I realized that it would take until FN came out with the MK VI before I finished the modification. So "Plan B", try using a wood rasp.

The wood rasp is MUCH faster but I'm planning on switching back to a file at the end of the project to have a smoother finish. Also, I've noticed that based on trial fittings as it progresses that the top of the holster also needs to be relieved where part of the slide rides.

And as others have mentioned, you must relieve the catch that holds the trigger guard.

At this point I have the Serpa where it's approximately as tight as my Bravo Concealment Kydex holster for my 5.7 MKII. I'm still working on the catch and using a needle file is taking awhile.
 

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O.K., I decided being that I have two Blackhawk Serpa holsters for a USG 5.7 and I no longer own a USG I'd try modifying one of them.

The method I decided on was to file the inside of the holster, well after HOURS of filing I realized that it would take until FN came out with the MK VI before I finished the modification. So "Plan B", try using a wood rasp.

The wood rasp is MUCH faster but I'm planning on switching back to a file at the end of the project to have a smoother finish. Also, I've noticed that based on trial fittings as it progresses that the top of the holster also needs to be relieved where part of the slide rides.

And as others have mentioned, you must relieve the catch that holds the trigger guard.

At this point I have the Serpa where it's approximately as tight as my Bravo Concealment Kydex holster for my 5.7 MKII. I'm still working on the catch and using a needle file is taking awhile.

PursuitSS,

Let me assure you that after 5 months of continual carry, the modification of the Serpa is still holding and working well, no weakness in the holster. You will not be disappointed in your time and effort once it is done. The one thing that helped me was taking a black permanent marker to put the black back on after I did the filing with the dremel.

Please post some pics when you are done.
 
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