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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had this rifle for 7 years. Never been fired. I bought a US Optic 3x17 34 mm tube (Model ??) . Got the rings from Badger Ordance . Put a harris biapod on it. I got 5 boxes of Federal gold match and 500 rnds of some Ga Arms Match ammo. I ain't got a clue on how good or bad this Ga arms stuff is . Im just going to take it to the range and shoot 200yds with it. Range limits. Im not competeing or want the best rifle at the range. My question is I haven't put this together yet. Its all in pieces. Scope rings , rifle. Should I get good enough results by assymbling this rifle as is with no adttional work ? Hold moa I guess Im saying. Im a long gun novice. The gun will always out shoot me. I just want a decent long gun with accessaries to plink occassionally at the range. You serious people talk about bedding the rail. Bedding the rifle, Lapping the rings. It's alittle over my head with all that stuff. I just don't want to spend unessarly. I know the saying. Just go shoot it and see. Just looking for someone who might have been exactly where Im at right now. Thanks for the advise, WarDawg
 

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The SPR should be quite accurate. As long as you do your part and mount the scope properly, make sure the rings are free of oil or grease, and torqued to the proper specification you should be good to go. The SPR is a fine rifle. Please be sure to report back once you have assembled and fired. Happy new year and welcome to FNF.
 

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Everything should be good to go. You shouldn't need to lap the rings if you got quality rings. The rail on my was fine and has never come loose (A5m built in 2010). As long as all the screws are torqued good, you'll be fine there.

And to hopefully save yourself some money getting zeroed, pull the bolt out and look down the bore at something off in the distance. Have the gun very stable. Adjust the scope so that the cross hairs match what you see through the bore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Should I take the rail screws out and apply blue locktite .also do the same with the ring screws?
 

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And to hopefully save yourself some money getting zeroed, pull the bolt out and look down the bore at something off in the distance. Have the gun very stable. Adjust the scope so that the cross hairs match what you see through the bore.
I do this at night , pointed at a light, you get a nice star pattern in the barrel when its square on.
 

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Should I take the rail screws out and apply blue locktite .also do the same with the ring screws?
I never did with mine (for the rail). For the rings, a tiny little dab should do. Just make sure to degrease the threads well.
 

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You more than likely wont have to bed the rings or the rail. Just put the gun together and go shoot it and see if you get good consistent groups. Make sure your action screws are tight and set to the right torque pound. This would be the most important. I haven't needed to bed my rifle and I am shooting .3 moa with Silver State Armory 175 SMKs. It shoots this better than the FGMM 168s. Also I would recommend sighting your rifle in for 100 if you plan on using your turrets instead of hold over with your reticle. Your gun is the same as mine and it has been able to go out to 800 with great consistency. Only mod I have done was an adjustable cheek piece and I don't think I will need to do anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys. I know I can over think things when Im not familiar with it..... Wardawg



You more than likely wont have to bed the rings or the rail. Just put the gun together and go shoot it and see if you get good consistent groups. Make sure your action screws are tight and set to the right torque pound. This would be the most important. I haven't needed to bed my rifle and I am shooting .3 moa with Silver State Armory 175 SMKs. It shoots this better than the FGMM 168s. Also I would recommend sighting your rifle in for 100 if you plan on using your turrets instead of hold over with your reticle. Your gun is the same as mine and it has been able to go out to 800 with great consistency. Only mod I have done was an adjustable cheek piece and I don't think I will need to do anything else.
 

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Check to see if you need to bed the rail. You put the back screws in then tap on the front. If it feels solid and is not tapping take the screws out and put the front in. Now see if the back is tapping. If not then there is no need to bed them. If you get the tapping sound, you should bed the rail. The rings are probably good without lapping. The screws holes on the rail and on the receiver only need to be a tiny bit out to need to bed the rail. You have nice equipment. A tiny bit of movement can help cause screws to come loose, accuracy to change with heat and all sorts of stupid minor problems. In extreme cases it can twist the tube of that nice scope you have. Also, torque everything to spec.
 
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