Larry,
I think we got the Loctite issue sorted out. I (or someone who's been following it, or you) can post a summary when I/we get to it. But, basically:
a) You can soften the Loctite with heat, best seems to be soldering iron/gun, so Loctite'd screws can be easily removed
b) Disolve old Loctite off screws and mating threads with Brake Kleen or other solvent designated for that
c) Upon re-assembly, apply blue Loctite 242 or purple Loctite XXX (forgot the model #)
Piston cleaning: I thought the manual told us how to disasssemble and clean that....(?)
Bolt cleaning: Uhhhh, I believe the manual recommends brushing and wiping accessible surfaces w/o disassembly, both on bolt itself and mating breech surfaces. Kinda a point of design philosophy here: This is NOT a "blow-back" action. I have a blow-back semi-auto pistol (admittedly a .22LR) and the breech and bolt get gummed up pretty bad with burnt powder residue and congealed oil thicked by mixing with the powder residue [side notes: with the .22 its not unusual to put 200-300 rounds through it during one visit to the range, and we learned not to over-oil that area]. Blowback is bad, 'cause hot gases and powder residue enter the receiver region "live" (still burning!) as the spent casing ejects. In the FNAR, this is not supposed to happen (I think). The action is operated by the piston and sliding momentum-weight (what's the correct name?) and gives a time delay between firing of the round and ejcting the spent casing. This (hopefully) means that hot gases and powder residues are not leaking back into the receiver and retracting bolt face as the casing ejects. Should stey pretty clean, if you also store it properly (no room dust) and wipe the area occaisionally. I think that is the situation.
Breaking screw heads: That's a real issue. I got a note by back channels from a member who has spoken with FN about this - apparently they know of the problem and are committed to fixing it. Don't know any details....