Pics of field strip?
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Thanks!
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I looked over my manual last night and I think the hex screws are for removing the trigger group. I didn't have enough time to do the process carefully so perhaps this weekend. It seems you can remove the bolt without removing the trigger group? It is all seems so complex until you dismantle it a few times.megawatt said:
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Nope, I don't think so (don't have manual near me). The manual says not to fire the gun until you strip down and remove all the assembly/shipping lubrication first. I wanted to clean bolt but if I remember correctly the trigger group has to come off first. And to do that those pesky locktite screws have to come off. So I just cleaned around all the parts that I could get to, it just takes three times as long and not as complete a job. I figure it was not all that bad to do it this way. Zero complications when I went to shoot the next day, rifle functioned just fine.ick said:
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39 Posts
use some wd 40
To loosen up the locktite use some wd 40. let is sit for 30 minutes and then the screws will come out without much effort.
To loosen up the locktite use some wd 40. let is sit for 30 minutes and then the screws will come out without much effort.
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2,143 Posts
I tore it down 3 times tonight. It is starting to get second nature. It sure is hard to tell what the manual means with the terminology and such. It sure seems like a video DVD included with the firearm or online would be MUCH better.
All you need is:
-nice wide (yet still skinny for the slot) flat-head screwdriver for the forearm attachment nut.
-good quality 2.5mm Allen wrench for the magazine block screws
-Flat-head that fits the set screw
The Allen wrench you can use to remove any and all pins.
Now that I have done it several times it is pretty easy to take apart.
One Concern
One concern I have is the two little plates with the clear rubber buffer. These three small pieces sit between the chamber and the inertia block and action spring. The one plate has an arm that covers the spring for the bolt release. I can see myself getting that BACKWARDS by accident. I don't think it would affect performance but I guess it could be struck by the inertia block. I will have to check that.
Bolt Cleaning
One thing that I am surprised that I have to ask is... how the heck do you remove the bolt for cleaning? There is nothing in the manual on this. I can see that this area should stay relatively clean of gas fowling, but can't it be taken apart easily? It seems like this portion was omitted or the bolt is really hard to take out without removing the barrel. I don't know. You would think that the bolt could accumulate debris in a rough environment.
All you need is:
-nice wide (yet still skinny for the slot) flat-head screwdriver for the forearm attachment nut.
-good quality 2.5mm Allen wrench for the magazine block screws
-Flat-head that fits the set screw
The Allen wrench you can use to remove any and all pins.
Now that I have done it several times it is pretty easy to take apart.
One Concern
One concern I have is the two little plates with the clear rubber buffer. These three small pieces sit between the chamber and the inertia block and action spring. The one plate has an arm that covers the spring for the bolt release. I can see myself getting that BACKWARDS by accident. I don't think it would affect performance but I guess it could be struck by the inertia block. I will have to check that.
Bolt Cleaning
One thing that I am surprised that I have to ask is... how the heck do you remove the bolt for cleaning? There is nothing in the manual on this. I can see that this area should stay relatively clean of gas fowling, but can't it be taken apart easily? It seems like this portion was omitted or the bolt is really hard to take out without removing the barrel. I don't know. You would think that the bolt could accumulate debris in a rough environment.
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196 Posts
FNAR Manual is posted on FNH USA web site
Knekt,
Before I got my FNAR, I used to look at the FNAR Owner's Manual at:
http://www.fnhusa.com/le/downloads/manuals.asp .
This manual is downloadable free as a .PDF file, openable with Adobe Reader software, which is also downloadable free. However, the photos of the interior action are a little grainy when you enlarge them enough to see details.
What is strange is that, for the longest time, the FNAR manual was the ONLY manual available on the FNH USA website. Now it looks like there is one for the FS2000 as well.
Knekt,
Before I got my FNAR, I used to look at the FNAR Owner's Manual at:
http://www.fnhusa.com/le/downloads/manuals.asp .
This manual is downloadable free as a .PDF file, openable with Adobe Reader software, which is also downloadable free. However, the photos of the interior action are a little grainy when you enlarge them enough to see details.
What is strange is that, for the longest time, the FNAR manual was the ONLY manual available on the FNH USA website. Now it looks like there is one for the FS2000 as well.
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2,143 Posts
I did another field strip of the FNAR last night. I am starting to get better at it.Ick said:
I still don't see how to remove the bolt. Again, with the gas system I suppose it won't get too dirty in the bolt area... but still you don't clean that area?
Can anyone answer how to remove... or at least effectively clean the bolt?
It is not in the manual.
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39 Posts
It really does not make any sense not to be able to remove the bolt.
I read the manual and it states in it that you are not suppose to remove the bolt as it never needs service.
Excuse me, but I know of no other weapon that never needs the bolt cleaned.
What is FN smoking?
Even short stroke gas pistons need cleaning.
It says in the manual to send your rifle to some service center if you need the bolt serviced.
Perhaps FN thinks we are going to shoot 20 rounds a year and no more.
I think FN needs to address this serious lack of the customer's ability to service their rifles completely.
I am scared to strip it down for fear I will break off the screw head or when trying to remove the loctited screws strip or break them.
Like many of you who now own this rifle I wish I knew about all these problems and limitations before I bought the FNAR.
Not only can we not get 20 round mags. Now we have parts breaking and other parts not being able to clean.
FN does not seem to have their act together at all.
I read the manual and it states in it that you are not suppose to remove the bolt as it never needs service.
Excuse me, but I know of no other weapon that never needs the bolt cleaned.
What is FN smoking?
Even short stroke gas pistons need cleaning.
It says in the manual to send your rifle to some service center if you need the bolt serviced.
Perhaps FN thinks we are going to shoot 20 rounds a year and no more.
I think FN needs to address this serious lack of the customer's ability to service their rifles completely.
I am scared to strip it down for fear I will break off the screw head or when trying to remove the loctited screws strip or break them.
Like many of you who now own this rifle I wish I knew about all these problems and limitations before I bought the FNAR.
Not only can we not get 20 round mags. Now we have parts breaking and other parts not being able to clean.
FN does not seem to have their act together at all.
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196 Posts
Larry,
I think we got the Loctite issue sorted out. I (or someone who's been following it, or you) can post a summary when I/we get to it. But, basically:
a) You can soften the Loctite with heat, best seems to be soldering iron/gun, so Loctite'd screws can be easily removed
b) Disolve old Loctite off screws and mating threads with Brake Kleen or other solvent designated for that
c) Upon re-assembly, apply blue Loctite 242 or purple Loctite XXX (forgot the model #)
Piston cleaning: I thought the manual told us how to disasssemble and clean that....(?)
Bolt cleaning: Uhhhh, I believe the manual recommends brushing and wiping accessible surfaces w/o disassembly, both on bolt itself and mating breech surfaces. Kinda a point of design philosophy here: This is NOT a "blow-back" action. I have a blow-back semi-auto pistol (admittedly a .22LR) and the breech and bolt get gummed up pretty bad with burnt powder residue and congealed oil thicked by mixing with the powder residue [side notes: with the .22 its not unusual to put 200-300 rounds through it during one visit to the range, and we learned not to over-oil that area]. Blowback is bad, 'cause hot gases and powder residue enter the receiver region "live" (still burning!) as the spent casing ejects. In the FNAR, this is not supposed to happen (I think). The action is operated by the piston and sliding momentum-weight (what's the correct name?) and gives a time delay between firing of the round and ejcting the spent casing. This (hopefully) means that hot gases and powder residues are not leaking back into the receiver and retracting bolt face as the casing ejects. Should stey pretty clean, if you also store it properly (no room dust) and wipe the area occaisionally. I think that is the situation.
Breaking screw heads: That's a real issue. I got a note by back channels from a member who has spoken with FN about this - apparently they know of the problem and are committed to fixing it. Don't know any details....
I think we got the Loctite issue sorted out. I (or someone who's been following it, or you) can post a summary when I/we get to it. But, basically:
a) You can soften the Loctite with heat, best seems to be soldering iron/gun, so Loctite'd screws can be easily removed
b) Disolve old Loctite off screws and mating threads with Brake Kleen or other solvent designated for that
c) Upon re-assembly, apply blue Loctite 242 or purple Loctite XXX (forgot the model #)
Piston cleaning: I thought the manual told us how to disasssemble and clean that....(?)
Bolt cleaning: Uhhhh, I believe the manual recommends brushing and wiping accessible surfaces w/o disassembly, both on bolt itself and mating breech surfaces. Kinda a point of design philosophy here: This is NOT a "blow-back" action. I have a blow-back semi-auto pistol (admittedly a .22LR) and the breech and bolt get gummed up pretty bad with burnt powder residue and congealed oil thicked by mixing with the powder residue [side notes: with the .22 its not unusual to put 200-300 rounds through it during one visit to the range, and we learned not to over-oil that area]. Blowback is bad, 'cause hot gases and powder residue enter the receiver region "live" (still burning!) as the spent casing ejects. In the FNAR, this is not supposed to happen (I think). The action is operated by the piston and sliding momentum-weight (what's the correct name?) and gives a time delay between firing of the round and ejcting the spent casing. This (hopefully) means that hot gases and powder residues are not leaking back into the receiver and retracting bolt face as the casing ejects. Should stey pretty clean, if you also store it properly (no room dust) and wipe the area occaisionally. I think that is the situation.
Breaking screw heads: That's a real issue. I got a note by back channels from a member who has spoken with FN about this - apparently they know of the problem and are committed to fixing it. Don't know any details....
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196 Posts
I can't imagine that this screw whose head wrings off is anything super special. I'll take my FNAR apart this weekend and see if I can I.D. it as a standard screw. At least on an emergency basis, we might be able to find something that will serve. I know, I know. Substituting a non-FN part may void warranty. But this is a screw, for heavens' sake.
I just got my FNAR and was asking the same question about removing the bolt the gunsmith said the bolt is balanced and they do not want people to take them out only a gunsmith. Asked what to use for cleaning and was told a pull through bore brush and a shaving brush for the trigger assembly and reciever. Patrick
Notice! DO NOT ALTER OR ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE
ANY PART OF THE TRIGGER GROUP OR REMOVE OR
DISASSEMBLE THE BOLT MECHANISM
Notice! DO NOT ALTER OR ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE
ANY PART OF THE TRIGGER GROUP OR REMOVE OR
DISASSEMBLE THE BOLT MECHANISM
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