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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yeah I understand that the fnx tac is made for and used for a completely different purpose or was designed for anyway. But why can't quality standards be more exact with these "space age" polymers? You would think that they could refine it to tighter tolerances and smooth out injection marks so it doesn't look like it was intended for a happy meal. Maybe they just don't care and good enough to function is just that.... Good enough.


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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
When you operate this there is no mistake in function and it locks up like a bank vault. I think I'll buy a Sig next.




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Yeah I understand that the fnx tac is made for and used for a completely different purpose or was designed for anyway. But why can't quality standards be more exact with these "space age" polymers? You would think that they could refine it to tighter tolerances and smooth out injection marks so it doesn't look like it was intended for a happy meal. Maybe they just don't care and good enough to function is just that.... Good enough.
I think it has to due with the frame not cooling properly rather than tolerances. That and poor quality control.
 

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You have to wonder how would this hold up in the heat of the sand box?? I mean you can re shape it with a hair dryer how would it stand up to 115• dessert heat? I have one on the way and now I'm re thinking my purchase.

Btw I love my valor as well. Supreme value for the money. Blows away custom shop Colts special combat carry models. Ask me how I know....:idea:
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Valor is best sub 2000$ 1911 I ever held/shot. I was thinking about the silver one but something about the black makes the 1911 a understated beauty. I want to get a DW PM-9. Was going to get one but decided on the fnx tac instead. Happy with my purchase but I need to spend another 1000$ to accessorize the fnx when I would have been happy to just shoot a new DW


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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Ya I dunno I heard about the fire. Over at 1911forum they said that they would be back up and running by dec. so I assume they still are. Don't know about location though and how quickly they will resume actual production.


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Is DW currently producing 1911s? Last I read was something about getting up and running at a new location following a fire.
No. They had a bad fire a few months ago. Lost most of their equipment and guns. It was a devastating incident. They have purchased a new building in the same town but don't have their equipment set up yet. They said they would HOPE to be making guns again by the end of march. Sad. Their guns are the best value in 1911 that you can get in my opinion. I have a bunch of Wilson's, Baers, Ed browns and Colts. My Dan Wesson is the one that Rides on my hip every day. Amazing gun that I trust my life to.

 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
You got a vbob! Real men carry full size Valors lol. Atheist you got the more accurate black color. (FDE is most accurate just not offered by DW). Didn't want to confuse my fellow FNH friends.


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Just curious, I have a new FNX-45 tac, and it has the "pig-nose" gap..my question being, if anyone knows..it is cosmetic only right?..I understand if the gap and bend were both excessive then a light or laser attached would require more adjustment. But function..could excessive dirt cause an issue..or is that possibility so rare or unlikely it is not an issue?
For that matter, does anyone know if is surely just a cosmetic defect? I agree, I wish QC would tighten up and correct little things like this during manufacture. But like many others, I bought this gun to have a lot of fun with it and it is going to get beat up. So for me, it's a minor blemish.
As for the fix, I have NO experience in real world/pro gun work/repair, so I rather not try something and screw it up for what is a minor issue to me. For a strict collector or others who have different opinions it may be a huge defect.But for me..nah..The only work I do with my firearms is the drop-in stuff. I upgraded stocks, forearms, changed a flash suppressor, etc..but never any (what I consider) heavy gunsmith stuff. To others with different skills and knowledge, this may be as easy as anything else. But I would hate to damage the frame. And on top of that, the current scarcity of the model would mean a long wait, a higher price, or worse if some kind of legislation comes through, a ten-rounder only future model..blah blah... I just do not have the balls to do that..yet..I am reading more and more about the dark arts..but for now, I salute you brave men who fixed the gap on their pistols.
BTW, I would totally do this on my Glock 23's..heh..I love it, but I paid 375 for one used. One here and another on the property. Always good to have a spare. I am still looking to getting another FNX-45 Tactical in black, just because I want it. I really like this gun.
Sorry for the tangent, just curious what is known about it being just cosmetic or not. I have emailed FN twice about it. No reply yet. Also, theres a video on YouTube about the FNP-45 Competition model, in black, which seems to show a large gap on the gun. So I've seen it on both FDE and black. Thanks in advance for any info!
Damn! I ramble on and on and on..
 

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Typically only cosmetic as the nearest frame rails are an inch or two aft.

Having an affect on a light or laser/light combo depends upon the hardware and how the interface to the pistol is designed.
Thanks, thats what I am thinking, but I am not an expert.
 

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I just fearfully tried the "hair dryer" fix. I have to say when they mention it takes 3 times that's like to a science. Here is my summary.

Preparation: Thinking your an idiot for even trying it.

See how much it's off. Give the frame a good look and get a clear idea.


Step 1: Heating for the first time. The first time you sissy heat it because you are scared that you are going to ruin your fine pistol. So, you barely heat it and the dust cover hardly moves.
Step 2: You heat it again and get it a little warmer but you're still hesitant so you don't heat it quit enough.
Step 3: Now you really have a good idea how much heat it will require to get the polymer slightly pliable.

After every heat exposure I flipped the frame over with just the dust cover against the edge of my bench. Each time pressing the frame trying to flex level it. Also by the last heat session I determined that I needed a little more pressure while leveling. I would hold the dust cover part of the frame firmly against the bench. With the other hand I gently applied downward pressure to the pistol grip.

After I stared at it a ton of times and did some light tweaking while the polymer was cooling down. You should be able to touch it with your hands at all times, it should only feel warm. If you heat it to where it's hot to the touch you applied way too much heat.
 

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Skipped the blow direr and went with the glass-top electric range. Probably 90 seconds of heating, just got the frame hot but very handle-able and used the counter top as a straight edge to gently lever against.

Pre:



Post:




I guess the flip side of the tactical tupperware argument is that you can fix your gun in 90 seconds using common household appliances.
 
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