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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Probably stripped a screw on the side picatinny rail when going to install a Branham rail, might need to drill it out, is there any way to get replacements for those screws?

Also, they're really small... any tips on getting it out? Looks like they were torqued super tight.

Thanks!
 

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As someone who stripped the hell out of one those screws, this was the best advice I was given: use heat (either a heat gun or soldering iron) and use a quality hex wrench.
 
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Rifle

Probably stripped a screw on the side picatinny rail when going to install a Branham rail, might need to drill it out, is there any way to get replacements for those screws?

Also, they're really small... any tips on getting it out? Looks like they were torqued super tight.

Thanks!
Did the same thing on my rail from Midwest.Called them they sent me extra screws.I used a torch,liguid wrench and a easy out.
 

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Good to hear you got it out. I had the same issue sometime back and stripped the heads on the rail screws. Like Jarod said, I ordered a lot of 100 of the M4 x 0.7 screws for around $5.00 plus $4 shipping. If you need one or two or many please PM me and I will send them out FOC.
 

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I hate that about things that are built these days. Why use small hex nuts that are so easily rounded or stripped? I just rounded one off trying to remove it to install kinetic development QD mounts for a sling. 😡😡😡
 

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It's an M4 flat head bolt you can get them from McMaster all day long. You can get a box of 100 for what most "SCAR parts" guys sell a single on for....

McMaster-Carr
Hey Jarod, I'm sure you deal with these screws and FN's thread locker than most folks. Do you have a "go-to" method for getting them out 100% of the time? Any specific heat source you favor? Time spent heating? Any signals that the stuff has been melted (smoke tendrils or anything?)
 

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Hey Jarod, I'm sure you deal with these screws and FN's thread locker than most folks. Do you have a "go-to" method for getting them out 100% of the time? Any specific heat source you favor? Time spent heating? Any signals that the stuff has been melted (smoke tendrils or anything?)

Remove the barrel, and apply heat directly to the Black Aluminum Square nuts inside the receiver you can use a torch with a focused flame but be CAREFUL not to melt the plastic rails or upper, you will see once the m4 bolts are loose a green'ish colored film on the Square nut this my friends is the wondrous loctite 603 which has a bonding temp up to 300* F.

Hope that helps.
 

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What's the risk of overheating the upper? I just had to hit mine for about 3 minutes with a propane torch for one of the front trunnion screws to come free after it was stripped. Some excess penetrating oil took a flame and singed my finish around the screw a little.

Looks like annealing 6061 aluminum takes hours, how long would it take to screw up the structural integrity of the aluminum? Longer than 3 minutes with a torch?
 

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What's the risk of overheating the upper? I just had to hit mine for about 3 minutes with a propane torch for one of the front trunnion screws to come free after it was stripped. Some excess penetrating oil took a flame and singed my finish around the screw a little.

Looks like annealing 6061 aluminum takes hours, how long would it take to screw up the structural integrity of the aluminum? Longer than 3 minutes with a torch?

I would not worry about it to much, I looked at your picture you sent me via PM .
 
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