[lemonysword]

Hello,

I recently acquired an OD green PS90 with factory black ring sight and immediately stamped it. Stamp was approved a few days ago, and I'm trying to remove the barrel, but it is absolutely ****ing seized.

I've removed the blind pin
I've thinned a 15mm wrench
The upper is in a vice
I am turning clockwise

I'm applying my entire body weight to this thing and all it's doing is slipping the upper out of the vice. There is a pretty big mar being formed on the receiver above the flat part of the barrel shroud where it is twisting into the receiver.

Is there loctite or something on this? I know that I have an older model PS90, these were discontinued in like 2012, so my assumption is that maybe fouling has seized up the threads. Does anyone have any suggestions? My only thoughts are a bigger, stronger vice and a breaker bar, but I think if I clamped it any tighter it'd absolutely ruin the finish on the upper.

Did they use a loctite on it as well? Do you think hitting it with my propane torch would help at all?

 

[akitainu]

I'd hit it with some PB Blaster (or something similar) and let it sit a bit.

Good luck, man. I took the easy route and took a band saw to mine.

You may want to take a look at this:
PS90 Barrel Swap (How To W/Pics)

 

[lemonysword]

The threads, so far as I understand, are kinda deep inside the barrel shroud so I don't know how I'd get PB blaster or another penetrating oil to it. The only thing that thread tells me at the stage I am at is to turn the wrench clockwise, which I am doing.

If you hacksaw it past the threads, there shouldn't really be anything holding it on right? The barrel should just slide right out?

 

[akitainu]

If you hacksaw it past the threads, there shouldn't really be anything holding it on right? The barrel should just slide right out?

Mine dropped right out after cutting it. I was going to get the barrel cut and threaded as a spare anyways, so I saw no need to go through the extra steps.

 

[lemonysword]

You've made the call easy then. Just mad I wasted $5 and a bunch of time on a sacrificial 15mm wrench

 

[akitainu]

I'm sure some one may still chime in with an idea to free it, lot's of folks have gone your route with success. Plus, you'll still need the wrench to install the new barrel.

 

[LESTER]

I’m guessing you don’t have the blind pin fully drilled out!

 

[HK SD9 Tactical]

Unless the blind pin is completley removed, it can jam the shroud while trying to remove it. Even the smallest of pin left can jam the threads. And you will need the thinned wrench to torque the SB to the front adapter.

 

[lemonysword]

I’m guessing you don’t have the blind pin fully drilled out!

I drilled behind it and punched it out from the back, so I assure you it is completely gone. In any case, I took the easy route like Akitainu did and spent 10 minutes with the hacksaw. Barrel just fell out. I think drilling and punching the pin is only for people who, for some inexplicable reason, want to replace the dumb 16" flash hider with another dumb 16" flash hider/brake. I went with Class 3 Machining for the cut after hearing several good reviews about him.

View attachment 134663

 

[Lb4lb]

One of those parts on the barrel is reverse threaded

 

[LESTER]

I drilled behind it and punched it out from the back, so I assure you it is completely gone.

what I thought when I did my first one! lol!

 

[kanewtervalve]

I drilled behind it and punched it out from the back, so I assure you it is completely gone. In any case, I took the easy route like Akitainu did and spent 10 minutes with the hacksaw. Barrel just fell out. I think drilling and punching the pin is only for people who, for some inexplicable reason, want to replace the dumb 16" flash hider with another dumb 16" flash hider/brake. I went with Class 3 Machining for the cut after hearing several good reviews about him.

View attachment 134663

I went the hard route so I can resell my 16" barrel and recoup some of the SBR cost.

 

[Wreckless]

I’ve done it both ways. My first attempt on the pin was unsuccessful so I just cut the barrel. Having learned from that experience my second one got the pin out and was a breeze.

 

[Larry-in-Eastbay]

CLOCKWISE-REVERSE THREAD when at the rear with barrel/sights in front of you. I always cringe when I hear of an impatient-no man skills barrel bubba the fubba cutter molesting their firearm (we need to take your man card away!)-unless you are a machinist-uber man skilled- and turning/re-using the barrel for the SBR-you still end up killing a perfectly good front barrel device. I have done several removals and yes it is a two minute drill after you carefully and slowly do the first one. I am convinced that cutting the barrel takes longer-except maybe the first time where you do not have to be careful and build up your confidence in the technique. A few times I was in the market for a long barrel and it made me really mad that 75% of the time I clicked the gunbroker listing that the barrel was cut or the threads were boogered from extremely poor skilled folks who then thought that their BUBBA the FUBBA creation still had monetary value. A good long Barrel sells for $200-$300 so except for a few of us it is pretty costly to be so lazy. The best You-Tube video that shows the two minute drill-he had a series of three videos showing how he progressed in his technique. I was fortunate to see this first so stole his technique shamelessly..

I never had to but if really stuck then try a propane torch for a bit. GOOD LUCK

 

[Wreckless]

It worked out fine for me since I had the barrel cut and threaded for my second sbr anyway. It saved me money over buying a new barrel.