FN Herstal Firearms banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I finally scored a 10" Factory barrel for my 16. My vise has a set of rubber soft jaws, but I can't get a good grip on just the barrel without the bottom rail getting in the way. Would there be any issue with putting the barrel in the receiver and then placing the receiver in the soft jaws so there is a better grip for applying the proper torque to get the barrel off. This thing was coated in a bunch of cosmoline/preservative as well which took a good bit to clean off. I swapped the gas jet for a 1.5mm jet already which was easy to remove since it's brand new. The production date on the label was 6/4/20, so it's nice and fresh. :mrgreen:

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,166 Posts
The FH on the 10" is King Kong'd on there. I would not recommend installing it in the receiver and twisting away. You will probably deform your receiver and snap a barrel extension screw.

Jarod shows a good way to hold the barrel in this video. Also a some heat and a big arce breaker bar will help. I'm sure the purists will verbally slap be but it's absolutely ridiculous that FN torques these on as tight as the do. Unacceptable in my opinion and probably squeezes accuracy out of the barrel (reference sure fire vid 2:25).. Quite frankly I think it's total crap, there is no need for it. Perhaps their "legal counsel" implores them to do this.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,166 Posts
BTW, I think a 1.5mm jet is really low. I believe the 10" comes with a 2.0mm stock. I tried a 1.70mm. It worked on unsuppressed setting, full mag & lock back on an empty etc. On suppressed setting (with no can) it worked on a full mag but would not lock back on an empty mag. Not the the end of the world because 99% of the time I would have a can on it in suppressed mode. I would imagine it would probably lock back with the extra back pressure. However, I felt like I was potentially flirting with the reliability of the platform some.

I could have installed the 1.75mm and that might have been the sweet spot but I decided to just go with the 1.8mm. I have read good reports on the 10" barrel with the 1.8mm and I decided it made sense since it's pretty much been the consensus.

Yeah, brotha man I think that 1.5mm is way too low.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The FH on the 10" is King Kong'd on there. I would not recommend installing it in the receiver and twisting away. You will probably deform your receiver and snap a barrel extension screw.

Jarod shows a good way to hold the barrel in this video. Also a some heat and a big arce breaker bar will help. I'm sure the purists will verbally slap be but it's absolutely ridiculous that FN torques these on as tight as the do. Unacceptable in my opinion and probably squeezes accuracy out of the barrel (reference sure fire vid 2:25).. Quite frankly I think it's total crap, there is no need for it. Perhaps their "legal counsel" implores them to do this.


Thanks for the info. I've seen that PMM video before but I never noticed the bottom rail was removed from the barrel. I'll try that and torque it in my soft jaws and see if I can the muzzle device to break loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
BTW, I think a 1.5mm jet is really low. I believe the 10" comes with a 2.0mm stock. I tried a 1.70mm. It worked on unsuppressed setting, full mag & lock back on an empty etc. On suppressed setting (with no can) it worked on a full mag but would not lock back on an empty mag. Not the the end of the world because 99% of the time I would have a can on it in suppressed mode. I would imagine it would probably lock back with the extra back pressure. However, I felt like I was potentially flirting with the reliability of the platform some.

I could have installed the 1.75mm and that might have been the sweet spot but I decided to just go with the 1.8mm. I have read good reports on the 10" barrel with the 1.8mm and I decided it made sense since it's pretty much been the consensus.

Yeah, brotha man I think that 1.5mm is way too low.
Thanks again for the info. I have a bunch of gas jets from 1.3 up to the factory jets that come in the 16s and 17s. I was reading a scar gas jet thread on AR15.com and it seemed 1.6 and 1.5 on the 10" barrel was what people ended up using. I'll probably start with a 1.7 and go from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,166 Posts
Thanks again for the info. I have a bunch of gas jets from 1.3 up to the factory jets that come in the 16s and 17s. I was reading a scar gas jet thread on AR15.com and it seemed 1.6 and 1.5 on the 10" barrel was what people ended up using. I'll probably start with a 1.7 and go from there.
Post back when you test her out. Let us know if you get consistent function with a jet lower than 1.7mm. I'd be interested to see how you make out. The type of ammo can certainly make a difference as well. If I recall correctly when I was reading on ARF.com people were using the 1.8's mostly but it could have been a different thread than the one you read. My results were based on using 62gr Natoish SS109 Privi.

I believe that the 16s comes with either a 1.35mm or 1.4mm in the stock 16" barrel.

Good luck. That flash hider is a real B to get off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Post back when you test her out. Let us know if you get consistent function with a jet lower than 1.7mm. I'd be interested to see how you make out. The type of ammo can certainly make a difference as well. If I recall correctly when I was reading on ARF.com people were using the 1.8's mostly but it could have been a different thread than the one you read. My results were based on using 62gr Natoish SS109 Privi.

I believe that the 16s comes with either a 1.35mm or 1.4mm in the stock 16" barrel.

Good luck. That flash hider is a real B to get off.
Thanks. I'll report back with what I find regarding the gas jet. I mostly use 55gr 5.56 for range/training so I'm going to tune it for that...but I'll also want to make sure it functions with 62gr or 77gr for occasional use.

Regarding the flash hider, I might just take it to my smith and make it his problem if I can't get it to budge on my own. FN doesn't use rockset from the factory with the sbr barrel and muzzle device do they?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,166 Posts
Thanks. I'll report back with what I find regarding the gas jet. I mostly use 55gr 5.56 for range/training so I'm going to tune it for that...but I'll also want to make sure it functions with 62gr or 77gr for occasional use.

Regarding the flash hider, I might just take it to my smith and make it his problem if I can't get it to budge on my own. FN doesn't use rockset from the factory with the sbr barrel and muzzle device do they?
I ended up taking mine to the only semi trustworthy smith that's around. I gave it a try but I don't have a big honking vice. It serves me well for non Kong related projects. I figured this was the best route before I boogered something up. I didn't want a 1k plus barrel assembly flying out of my vice onto the floor.

I tried a small torch but I think he used MAP or something like that. I remember him saying "Holy S" that thing was cranked on there so tight. I know he had a heck of a time getting it off. He used heat and a big breaker bar if I recall.

Mine did not have loctite or rockset. I always use rockset when I personally install my MD's though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Success! I think since this was recently manufactured I got lucky getting the muzzle device off the barrel. I put it in my HF vise and used some cardboard to protect the barrel. Gave it a twist with an 18" breaker bar and the AAC flash hider tool and it came right off.



Now I'm just waiting on the DA flash hider to get here and I should be all set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,166 Posts
Bravo brother! :?. I guess the monkey was working the assembly line that day instead of Kong. The big fella must have needed some time off after applying 80ft lbs of torque barrel after barrel.:-D

I have a DA on mine also. Make sure you get the Scar specific version.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Bravo brother! :?. I guess the monkey was working the assembly line that day instead of Kong. The big fella must have needed some time off after applying 80ft lbs of torque barrel after barrel.:-D

I have a DA on mine also. Make sure you get the Scar specific version.
:mrgreen: Yep, I ordered the SCAR specific hider. I didn't look at the specifics but since it indexes off the muzzle I don't use any shims to time it. Just crank it down to 30lb/fts and call it good, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,166 Posts
:mrgreen: Yep, I ordered the SCAR specific hider. I didn't look at the specifics but since it indexes off the muzzle I don't use any shims to time it. Just crank it down to 30lb/fts and call it good, right?
I'm sure you've done it already but yes that's basically the method. You try and line up the notch for the Keymo as close as you can to 12 o'clock but this is just to make it more user friendly. You don't have to be dead at 30/ft lbs so you have a little room to finagle. Mine is off just a tick.

It must be me but whenever I have to time a MD with shims it takes me like an hr and a half. I don't know why it's not more simple for me. I put one of the Keymo FH's on my AR with the shims. I got it lined up perfectly at 12 but holly crap it took me forever to mad scientist the right shims with the acceptable level of torque.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I'm sure you've done it already but yes that's basically the method. You try and line up the notch for the Keymo as close as you can to 12 o'clock but this is just to make it more user friendly. You don't have to be dead at 30/ft lbs so you have a little room to finagle. Mine is off just a tick.

It must be me but whenever I have to time a MD with shims it takes me like an hr and a half. I don't know why it's not more simple for me. I put one of the Keymo FH's on my AR with the shims. I got it lined up perfectly at 12 but holly crap it took me forever to mad scientist the right shims with the acceptable level of torque.
Yep, got it done. Just torqued it to 30ish ft/lbs. I've timed a few others and as you said, it's just for easier suppressor mounting. I usually run into the issue of the thicker spacer is too much but I don't want to stack a bunch of the thinner spacers and then you end up with a combo of the thinnest and medium shim.

Any update on your gas screw selection? What worked for you?
I haven't gotten it out yet. I had an issue before I got my SBR barrel. I was taking the gun apart after some shooting and when I went to remove the bolt cam pin, it wouldn't twist and come out. It was stuck. I tried to pull it with a pliers by hand and it felt like it was sort of spring loaded. The ejector spring or maybe it's the extractor spring was not compressed. Something must have broke. You can see it here looking into the back of the bolt.



I was able to order a new bolt but the cam pin was out of stock everywhere. The one I had was sort of egged out and I didn't want to risk it causing an issue with the new parts. I finally found one through Stryker industries and of course the USPS delivery was delayed. Hopefully it shows up next week sometime so I can finally get this thing out.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top