[MotoX383]

Has anyone done this? I have an AAC Cyclone and the only non-magnum 30cal I own is my scar. I sold my blackout and r700 308... I just ordered a 3'x.2969" rod to check concentricity and will soon order some gas control screws. I know there is very little shoulder on the scar barrel... That being said, would it be best to leave the pws jam nut backed down all the way as a shoulder (if it's concentric), get an alignment shim/washer, or just suppressor itself (if concentric)? I have never used rocksett before. I apologize if this has been directly answered before...

 

[akitainu]

While not the exact same situation, you may want to check out this thread.

 

[Justin Bove]

I would recommend using Rocksett unless you you want to permanently attach it. Rocksett is basically high temp crazy glue. When I use Rocksett on a FH/MB installation I then have to use a blow torch to remove the FH/MB. I heat the FH/MB and then use a wrench to break the seal . With a direct thread suppressor I'd be afraid that I wouldn't be able to remove it without damaging the suppressor. I'd use blue thread locker first then red thread locker if the blue doesn't work.

 

[MotoX383]

I was under the assumption that loctite would not work due to heat generated from firing. I was also under the assumption that rocksett is broken down by submerging in water, making it the preferred method in high heat applications.

 

[hogslayer]

I would recommend using Rocksett unless you you want to permanently attach it. Rocksett is basically high temp crazy glue. When I use Rocksett on a FH/MB installation I then have to use a blow torch to remove the FH/MB. I heat the FH/MB and then use a wrench to break the seal . With a direct thread suppressor I'd be afraid that I wouldn't be able to remove it without damaging the suppressor. I'd use blue thread locker first then red thread locker if the blue doesn't work.

All you have to do it put it in boiling water. Rockset is high temp resistant however, boiling water will disolve it. It is also dependent on how much Rocksett was used. A normal amount will come off easy after a few minutes in boiling water.

 

[hogslayer]

I was under the assumption that loctite would not work due to heat generated from firing. I was also under the assumption that rocksett is broken down by submerging in water, making it the preferred method in high heat applications.

Correct!!

 

[Justin Bove]

All you have to do it put it in boiling water. Rockset is high temp resistant however, boiling water will disolve it. It is also dependent on how much Rocksett was used. A normal amount will come off easy after a few minutes in boiling water.

You are correct about the loctite not being able to withstand the temperatures. My thinking was to make the threads lock tighter to the suppressor. Probably the best would be Teflon tape. Personally i've never had a direct thread come off. I've had direct thread suppressors that wouldn't come off though. I shot a bunch of rounds and with my oven mitt really cranked it tight......Looking back I should have known what would happen. When the gun cooled down that suppressor wouldn't budge. I had to shoot it again to heat it up so I could remove it.

 

[Milspec]

:\\/:

 

[KameronTKelly]

Boiling water isn't the ticket. It took 4 days for me to remove an FH which AAC rocksett on. I had to soak it in water for 4 days. I would highly recommend you stay away from rocksett unless you want to permanently attach it.

 

[MotoX383]

Well hell, sounds like I may need to get another bolt gun.

 

[MotoX383]

Or another barrel for my SRS

 

[FS2KSTD]

Boiling water isn't the ticket. It took 4 days for me to remove an FH which AAC rocksett on. I had to soak it in water for 4 days. I would highly recommend you stay away from rocksett unless you want to permanently attach it.

That's odd Kameron? The only time I've ever had issues with removing a muzzle device that's been installed with Rocksett is if it's had a million rounds shot through it(barrel harmonics torquing) or it's been over-torqued to begin with? The inherent properties of Rocksett are not hi-torque, just hi-temp resistant. Out of the hundreds, if not thousands of muzzle devices I removed that were installed with Rocksett, I've only had ONE require cutting off ... literally. AAC FH that was both over-torqued(I know the guy well and he red-faced admitted it) and had at least 30K rounds through it, with no shortage of mag dumps, in both semi and select-fire mode. So much for getting his flash hider off to swap to his new barrel!

Regarding the OP's issue with the direct thread can on your 17, it'd be ill-advised to rely on the jam nut or locking agents to keep things running right. I'm with the other forum members when they suggest using your Cyclone on a more suitable platform and getting a can more suited to your 17's "difficult" barrel thread. My Cyclones stay on my bolt guns and my 17 gets the SDN-6 with a Brakeout 2 comp that doesn't require timing and is buried on the crown.

 

[vertigosol]

AAC likes to use the whole bottle of rockset and then torque to about 80ftlbs on their uppers haha

 

[FS2KSTD]

AAC likes to use the whole bottle of rockset and then torque to about 80ftlbs on their uppers haha

I learned the hard way that no matter how much of the stuff you goop on the threads, only a small amount will STAY on the threads! Luckily, Rocksett cleanup is relatively easy. My rule of thumb regarding torque is hand tight + 10-15 degrees, which usually equates to around 30 ft/lbs +/-. I've had a handful of failures and every one of them resulted from not letting the mount setup for at least 24 hours, even after I told the customer before they left the shop and inevitably they went straight to the range to try out their new can.

 

[KameronTKelly]

I wish I was kidding.

http://fnforum.net/forums/sbr-suppr...lp-suggestions-please-having-lot-trouble.html

when you put a20" monkey wrench on the 51 teeth of a flash hider and lean on it without it coming off you know you have a problem. So perhaps the issue was torque but I will tell you right now I only had about 300 rounds through the rifle.

 

[Milspec]

That's odd Kameron? The only time I've ever had issues with removing a muzzle device that's been installed with Rocksett is if it's had a million rounds shot through it(barrel harmonics torquing) or it's been over-torqued to begin with? The inherent properties of Rocksett are not hi-torque, just hi-temp resistant. Out of the hundreds, if not thousands of muzzle devices I removed that were installed with Rocksett, I've only had ONE require cutting off ... literally. AAC FH that was both over-torqued(I know the guy well and he red-faced admitted it) and had at least 30K rounds through it, with no shortage of mag dumps, in both semi and select-fire mode. So much for getting his flash hider off to swap to his new barrel!



Regarding the OP's issue with the direct thread can on your 17, it'd be ill-advised to rely on the jam nut or locking agents to keep things running right. I'm with the other forum members when they suggest using your Cyclone on a more suitable platform and getting a can more suited to your 17's "difficult" barrel thread. My Cyclones stay on my bolt guns and my 17 gets the SDN-6 with a Brakeout 2 comp that doesn't require timing and is buried on the crown.

I thought AAC flip flopped and stated the the Brakeout 2.0's were now a no go on the 17s?

 

[FS2KSTD]

I wish I was kidding.

http://fnforum.net/forums/sbr-suppr...lp-suggestions-please-having-lot-trouble.html

when you put a20" monkey wrench on the 51 teeth of a flash hider and lean on it without it coming off you know you have a problem. So perhaps the issue was torque but I will tell you right now I only had about 300 rounds through the rifle.

Wow ... quite the ordeal Kameron. AAC is notorious for being under-staffed and slow to respond, which sucks if you've got a real issue like your flash hider incident. I've got a ton of money wrapped up with their product but have yet to have any issues ... can only hope I never do! In your particular case, the fancy 3-prong tool they sell would've helped immensely, putting all the torque evenly out front and giving you a good solid place to use a breaker bar/socket. Of course they aren't cheap but I bought one for work and am always glad I have it when I'm swapping mounts ... it's paid for itself many times over.

I thought AAC flip flopped and stated the the Brakeout 2.0's were now a no go on the 17s?

I wasn't aware but I'll look into it? I've yet to have any issues and the can is square to the bore. :th_shrug:
Edit: Just looked on their site and sure enough ... *NOT FOR USE ON SCAR 17 I'd guess they are just practicing some CYA but it's always up to the end-user to check bore-can alignment anyway ... just the prudent thing to do considering the investment.

 

[cabbynate]

Apply a thin coating of Rocksett to the threads of your barrel. Let it dry completely. Then screw your can on. It will be hand tight and the dried Rocksettwill act like Teflon tape. This is how I do my 9mm 5 inch barrel sub gun and YHM cobra M2 can. It never get's loose and it comes off by had with little effort.

 

[3LEGGEDSQUIRREL]

Apply a thin coating of Rocksett to the threads of your barrel. Let it dry completely. Then screw your can on. It will be hand tight and the dried Rocksettwill act like Teflon tape. This is how I do my 9mm 5 inch barrel sub gun and YHM cobra M2 can. It never get's loose and it comes off by had with little effort.

Locktite works for me on my 17.