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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trust just got a Saker 7.62 and the three port brake attachement. haven't mounted the brake to a rifle but just in initial fiddling it appears that the suppressor won't fit all the way over the brake. It's like the diameter of the brake is too large. I have read the manual and made sure the three teeth on the rear can attachement are rotated as far as possible out of the way but it's like they don't retract fully.

For any of you who have this setup, does the can slip without resistance over the brake or do you have to push against spring tension or something?

thanks
 

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It's the lock ring on the can, it needs to be turned all the way counterclockwise. It will be stiff since it's new, but it will have another "click" to it where the three teeth will retract all the way. If you look into the can you will be able to see the teeth sticking out, so you have to rotate the lock ring a little bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also can anyone confirm that the MAAD mount for the 3-chamber brake is the same as the one for the trifecta flash hider? I assume they would be since they mount the same but wanted to confirm before I bought a bunch of brakes/flash hiders. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One more question: for the SCAR, has anyone directly threaded the Trifecta FH or brake onto the SCAR using the shims and had success? I've read here that the SCAR doesn't necessarily guarantee a 90-degree shoulder on the threads. Any tips? is checking bore concentricity as simple as finding some .300 brass stock and running it down the bore/brake/can?
 

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One more question: for the SCAR, has anyone directly threaded the Trifecta FH or brake onto the SCAR using the shims and had success? I've read here that the SCAR doesn't necessarily guarantee a 90-degree shoulder on the threads. Any tips? is checking bore concentricity as simple as finding some .300 brass stock and running it down the bore/brake/can?
Yes using the SilencerCo shims you can time it on the SCAR barrel. However since you are using a flash hider I would just put it directly on and without shims and avoid the headache.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes using the SilencerCo shims you can time it on the SCAR barrel. However since you are using a flash hider I would just put it directly on and without shims and avoid the headache.
Thanks. For the SCAR I plan to use a brake, actually, and FH for bolt guns.

One more annoying question for you... will the 5.56 brake fit properly with the 7.62 SAKER? I assume so. I want to run the 7.62 can on my SCAR 16 and maybe some ARs.

If so, LMK if you have the 5.56 brakes in stock and the best way to order so you get credit for the sale/commission/whatever. :)
 

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One more question: for the SCAR, has anyone directly threaded the Trifecta FH or brake onto the SCAR using the shims and had success? I've read here that the SCAR doesn't necessarily guarantee a 90-degree shoulder on the threads. Any tips? is checking bore concentricity as simple as finding some .300 brass stock and running it down the bore/brake/can?
Yes, I took some pictures of it with my Saker 762 on my Scar 17 here: http://fnforum.net/forums/sbr-suppr...17-suppressor-concentricity-measurements.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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Awesome post and info. thanks!

When you are torquing muzzle attachements onto the barrel, do you just mount the upper in a vise? Or do you remove barrel and mount it in a vise, or another method?
I have the Scar upper/barrel block.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...rer-s-block-set-sku100003431-26201-51851.aspx

It has a groove which allows me to clamp onto the lower rail holding the upper in place. For installing the Silencerco muzzle devices I just use this as the torque spec is only 30 ft-lb (from what I remember). It's a low enough value that I don't need to remove the barrel and clamp on it directly. Both my Scars are SBR'd so I don't have enough barrel sticking out to clamp on otherwise. If you still have a 16" barrel you could use that block to clamp directly on the barrel instead if you wanted to, and it should clamp well enough for the 30 ft-lb torque range.

Now removing the factory ECP flash hider off those factory SBR barrels is a different story altogether. I had to clamp the barrels by the barrel extension in the vice, heat up the flash hider with a torch, and use the AAC flash hider removal tool to get them off. Nothing else (including warm water soaking) would get those darn things loose. So now that those are gone I just use the method described above when changing things around.
 
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