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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Thanks for the shout out too!

Nope, thank YOU. In my opinion, the Lancer rail wouldn't be worth having without the RDS.


Bored? That thing is HOT!!! 7.19lbs is MK18 Mod 1 type weight! That is very close to how I want mine setup with just a tiny bit of tweaking.

I ordered another front receiver plate so I can cut the loops off flush and have my roll of 3M skateboard deck tape ready to go as soon as I get my Lancer rail and KSboy screws.

I also cut out some very thin steel MLOK inserts/shims that will go on the inside to protect the rail from damage by those goofy MLOK lugs when I torque down rail segments.

Lastly I may ream those screw holes for some M5-0.80 Keylock steel inserts so I can crank them down tighter so I only need to pack the 62in/lb torque wrench instead of a heavier adjustable unit.

What a slick rig AO1! That BE Meyers FH looks right at home that that sexy thing.

Thanks!

I used stainless steel shim stock in .001" on the interior of the rail to prevent the M-LOK lugs on the IWC hand stop from biting and cutting into the carbon fiber. Technically, I use the shim stock to bed the barrels on my AR's, so I always have some laying around. Goes for about $8 on eBay, and comes in handy for other things from time to time.

As for securing the mounting block to the receiver, Lancer recommends 35 in/lbs, but I have them currently torqued at 62 in/lbs, and don't doubt for a second that the locking block can handle it. Truth be told, 35 in/lbs and a drop or two of VibraTite would do just as well, but like you, I don't see myself carrying around an extra torque wrench.


Army, what are you using for a rear sling attachment?

Froman nailed it with the Noveske Flush Mount, but what ya don't see is one of Jared's new stock QD mounts on the other side. I only use the Noveske if the stock is folded, and the rifle is slung across my back (I hike a lot on BLM).

As I always say, I think I might be the only guy on the planet that actually prefers the OEM stock over the KDG SAS stock. Bought the SAS, tried to like it, but couldn't get behind it (pun intended). The SAS isn't square with the bore, and the cheek rest was so low that I was faced with switching to absolute co-witness mounts, and the list of cons goes on. Might work well for other folks, but for me, it ended up being a downgrade, not an upgrade.

The ergonomics on the OEM stock are really hard to beat.
 

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Hard to get an accurate measurement because of slight curves at certain angles, but more or less, the arm is about 5mm thick.
Thank you, Sir! They come in 5mm length so I'll order them and the right tap just in case but run them chased M5-0.80 to start with. If they show any wear I can upgrade the threads then.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Thank you, Sir! They come in 5mm length so I'll order them and the right tap just in case but run them chased M5-0.80 to start with. If they show any wear I can upgrade the threads then.
Never worked with those before, but they sound like helicoils. Is that a drill and tap operation, or something else? Perhaps you could post a picture when you sort it all out.

Meantime, I have a titanium compensator (unrelated to SCAR) going out for Cerakote tomorrow, so the Lancer mounting block is going with it to get those raw, aluminum threads coated. Might as well include the hardware as well...
 

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Lurking for a long time and registered just to ask some questions! That's seriously the sickest SCAR I have seen!

I was hoping to find out what those inserts on the side of your receiver are and what screw (and Loctite) did you use to mount the rail to the barrel?

Thanks for ALL the information you posted!
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Lurking for a long time and registered just to ask some questions! That's seriously the sickest SCAR I have seen!

I was hoping to find out what those inserts on the side of your receiver are and what screw (and Loctite) did you use to mount the rail to the barrel?

Thanks for ALL the information you posted!
Those are the delrin inserts included with the MREX rail previously mounted on the SCAR. If you want a set, KDG sells a replacement hardware kit that includes the delrin inserts for $4.79. The idea for me was to leave them there as not to have it look like there is something missing from the receiver. Fairly secure, and I seriously doubt they would dislodge under normal use, but under hard use, they probably would, which is obviously not a big deal.

https://kineticdg.com/product/scar-mrex-replacement-hardware-kit/

If you think about it, that hole, in that particular location, is perfect for a QD sling point. The ID of the hole is .350", and if I'm not mistaken, the internal ID of a QD socket is .378", so I could simply enlarge the hole to that dimension with a tapered drill bit, but the problem is, I would have a QD socket that does not limit rotation, and I use 2-point slings. IMO, the front socket / QD point for a 2-point needs to limit rotation, and the rear socket / QD point can be whatever the end-user prefers.

Alternatively, the other options would be mounting a QD socket on the receiver, or install a flush mount QD socket within the receiver. The flush mount system would be ideal, so I guess I need to remove the barrel again, check clearances, see what options are available, order some parts, and see what might work.

Maybe I will leave well-enough alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
By the way, to answer your other question, I ordered another set of RDS screws from Kansas Boy for the specific purpose of securing the rail to the barrel extension, and used Loctite 603, Retaining Compound. Fastened to the recommended torque specification of 15 in/lbs.

The OD of the head on the RDS screw fits the circular recess of the mounting location on the rail perfectly.

 

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Thanks for the info!

You are right about that being a good spot for a QD sling mount. Interested in seeing what you come up with.

What torque tool do you use? I have a wheeler fat wrench for scope rings, but not sure if its good enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Thanks for the info!

You are right about that being a good spot for a QD sling mount. Interested in seeing what you come up with.

What torque tool do you use? I have a wheeler fat wrench for scope rings, but not sure if its good enough.
Since we're not assembling aerospace components, the Wheeler Fat Wrench is perfectly fine. Personally, I use a CDI 401SM for anything with a torque specification below 40 in/lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Always go back and forth with using an RDS on a platform that is capable of sub-minute accuracy.

I have a Vortex Razor Gen 2-E 1-6, a Leupold VX6-HD 1-6, and a Kahles K16i 1-6...

 

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Absolutely!

Front Plate x2: M4x8mm
Barrel Screw Support x2: M4x8mm
Shell Deflector x2: M4x6mm
Cam Rail x3: M4x6mm
Rear Plate x4: M4x6mm
Rear Plate (Top) x1: M5x10mm

The total should be $1.36, less shipping. :?

The price for Loctite 603 was a bit surprisingly, and most vendors, including Brownells, only have the 50ml size, which is just under $50. If you can find it, get the 10ml size. If I'm not mistaken, it was around $15, but the caveat is, Loctite 603 expires, and you'll find vendors that are either knowingly or unknowingly selling expired bottles.

I mentioned the Loctite because there's two things to consider. Compared to most of the torque specification tables I've seen, FN's torque specs for the receiver fasteners are fairly conservative. In speaking with them, they acknowledged that the specs were conservative, but noted that the Loctite 603 holds the fasteners in place without issue, so if you're going to stick with the factory spec of 22.1 in/lbs, use Loctite 603. If you're going to use Loctite 242 or 243, I would definitely go with 28-30 in/lbs.
I know im responding to an old thread, but its good to know the torque specs for these small fastners. I will double check mine on my 17, since i found 3 screws were alittle loose for the barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Hard to capture in pictures, but the light sits flush against the rail. I used the MLOK mount, but the same can be done with the Picatinny mount.





 

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Until the Scout Light Pro, I never found a mount or set-up that had a low enough profile to tuck a light right against the carbon forend.

I didnt know I needed the carbon fiber hardguard in my life until seeing this exact picture, I picked up the KDG however it is not very thin what so ever. I expected it to be a more slim than it is
 
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