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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there's thread where it is stated that the 14" assembly with the stock flash hider was equal to 16" if you pinned & welded to avoid the stamp, but I figured I'd throw a set of pictures up to show this is true. I took these at a buddy's who is collecting parts to do up a shortest possible non-stamp SCAR. Personally, I don't see the point, but it's not my money so my opinion is my opinion.

No, he doesn't have the SCAR yet. Yes, measuring isn't super accurate, but I'd imagine it would emulate a "in-the-wild" measure. Yes, some of the pics aren't super sharp either. I'm not Recoil. Enjoy!

Here's the suspect:


For those curious, .625 (5/8 inch) is the cutback and threading for muzzle devices:


Here's the marking of the stock FH measurement:


Tale of the tape for the stocker. It's good! Barely...



Now a little comparison between the stocker and a 249F for actual hight. Please note that the stocker has a collar that cover the shoulder on the barrel and makes for a very clean install. The 249F comes with a washer that fills the gap in and looks functional. It would be awesome if the 249F was threaded all the way so it bottomed out on the barrel shoulder, but you can't have it all.

249F and stock FH:


And agin, but as "installed":


Tale of the tape for both. First the stocker:


Now the 249F:


For all those interested, here's how the 249F shakes out when installed on the 14" assembly:


The gap between 249F and barrel shoulder that the supplied washer takes up:


Now the measuring:


A whole 1/16th, more or less... :th_143:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice writeup. I never understood why some people would jump through hoops to get 2" by pin and welding. I guess if you live in a state where you cannot SBR.
Heh, believe me, I didn't get it either.

My buddy rationalized it as he would avoid the stamp cost, have a shorter rifle overall, pull some weight, then cover the parts expense by selling the 16" assembly and stock FH. He's doing the pin & weld himself, so if he can get his money back, I guess it was worth it.

That seems like a lot of work for inches and ounces, but why not? It's not really anymore crazy then what people do when they get AR15 fever... :th_002:
 

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I live in california, so something like this would be something i would probably do. It is nice to get even 2 inches off the rifle, not much i know, but 10 inch sbrs are never going to happen here nor suppressors. When i get a 16 i will try to find someone like your buddy selling a 16 inch factory barrel for a good price and cut it down to be 16 exactly with a pin and welded surefire. I would like to retain the factory 16 inch for a few reasons. Im only missing one thing, the 3000+ dollars to do so lol.
 

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I'm having trouble making out what I'm seeing in that fourth photo...is your mark on the dowel at 16 1/2 inches? I guess a simple pin and weld can be done cheaper than an sbr if you are going to stick with the factory fs, right? I guess I'm not seeing where this makes your friend weird for doing it this way. Plus, you don't have the 9 month wait!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I live in california, so something like this would be something i would probably do. It is nice to get even 2 inches off the rifle, not much i know, but 10 inch sbrs are never going to happen here nor suppressors. When i get a 16 i will try to find someone like your buddy selling a 16 inch factory barrel for a good price and cut it down to be 16 exactly with a pin and welded surefire. I would like to retain the factory 16 inch for a few reasons. Im only missing one thing, the 3000+ dollars to do so lol.
Good point about CA. Even with cutting a 16" assembly down, you might want to figure out the gas "jet" sizing to the 14" gas block. I don't know the difference betwenn the 16 and 14, but I assume there is one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm having trouble making out what I'm seeing in that fourth photo...is your mark on the dowel at 16 1/2 inches? I guess a simple pin and weld can be done cheaper than an sbr if you are going to stick with the factory fs, right? I guess I'm not seeing where this makes your friend weird for doing it this way. Plus, you don't have the 9 month wait!
It's hard to see in the picture, but the mark is literally right after 16". If I had a more accurate way to measure, I'd say it was between 16" and 16" 1/32". In reality, it probably measures out to 16 1/16". As for cheaper, I think if you shopped hard for a 14", kept the stock FH, did the pin and weld yourself by borrowing someone's welding equipment, then flipped your 16" assembly, you'd come out fairly even.
 
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