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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im pretty new to reloading and the scar 17. Ive been hand loading my shells using what I think is top end equipment. Starrett Calipers, SHO Laboratory scales(formally Gempro scale), forrest precision dies...One at a time low and slow! I use lapua brass CCI primers IMR 8208 XBR and Hornady A Max bullets in the following receipt.
Lapua Brass
CCI 200 Primer
42.500 Grains of XBR
168 grn Hornady A max
2.000 trim
2.8005 COAL

Here is the issue Im having. I expect a gas gun to "beat up" the brass some, but Im getting some what I would describe as a deep knife line around the top of the brass right where the bullet exits and Im assuming this is from the extractor??!!??
The main issue is fired brass will NOT cycle through my sizing/decapping dye. It literally jams everytime. Here are the "New" case neck measurements vs "fired" case measurements:
New: 2.000-case .3345 OD on the very end .3025 ID at same point .2905 from tip to beginning of shoulder.4745 from tip to the end of the shoulder
Fired: 2.001-Case .3445 OD on the very end .3145 ID at same point .295 from tip to beginning of shoulder .4625 from tip to the end of the shoulder

Also the sharp edge on the trailing end of the extractor is what i "Think" is the culprit for damaging my brass as I used a black sharpie to color a shell so I could see the drag points. Can you slightly round over that trailing edge to create more of a "cupping" action than a sharp abrupt edge that it bangs against. Im sure there are plenty of Scar GODS on here that can help me out with their superior knowledge! If you need any additional data or measurements let me know. THANKS in advance!
 

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Does factory ammo get the same treatment through your rifle? I get a light scratch along the side of all of mine, but I am putting good mil surplus through it so I hardly care at the moment.
 

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Would you be able to take a picture of the brass? I don't see how the extractor could cause any issues to the mouth. One possibility is the brass is getting scratched up on the feed ramp.
 

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I've seen that light scratch on the neck of the brass ever since I've been shooting my SCAR with
whatever ammo I've used. It's not a problem as far as I've found. I don't reload 308 and give my
brass to a friend who does. He's reported to me that it's "non issue" and mostly polishes away in the
brass tumbler.
 

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Just a question. Are you lubricating the cases before running through your sizing die? If not, that could be the reason your cases are jamming in the sizing die.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Just a question. Are you lubricating the cases before running through your sizing die? If not, that could be the reason your cases are jamming in the sizing die.
i was lightly lubricating the shells at first and then when I ran into this issue I tried over lubricating the heck outta the shell to try and eliminate that as a possible cause.

Also the scratch on the brass isn't a big deal and I do polish it out about 90% in the cleaning process but it just seemed a smidge to deep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll post a picture of the fired brass vs the new unfired (but sized) when I get off work...thanks for all the help so far. I may post a video of a blank brass ejecting slowly so I can show when and where I believe it to be dragging
 

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Whats your lube? No need to overlube, but they shouldn't stick. If they do, it's not the rifle. What dies and what are you trimming the brass to? You'll get lots of lube opinions and I sometimes put some on a qtip and lube inside the neck so it takes less force, this has made a ton of difference for me. I tumble after as that lube will attract powder.
 

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Also, have you checked your sizing die for some debris stuck in it? I would take your sizing die and give it a good thorough cleaning and kinda start from zero. Clean your dies, lube your cases (don't over lube as that may promote debris to stick in the die) and go from there. I have never had a case get stuck in a die without it being debris/dirty causing the cases to get stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
IMG_3090.JPG
Ive tried CLP lube and RCBS assembly lube (for bullets) and apply it with a nylon round brush inside each bullet.
Fired on Left and unfired on right...you can see the small scar the rifle left in top on the brass...Ill try to take a better pic after dinner. Gotta feed my 4 kids lol!
 

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Hornady one shot or Dillon lube has always worked great for me. Stand the casings in a load tray and spray at a 45 degree angle from the front and back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I tried the hornady one shot spray lube as well...since I had some simply laying around... Uploading a video....posting soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OHH MY JESUS!!! Well I got them all to work in about 2.1 seconds....I got a NEW can of that hornady lube thinking mine was old....and used that...All 20 shells went through without a hiccup....That absolutely AMAZES ME!!!! No other lubricant would do it. That truly blows my mind! I would still like to post a video of the extraction process to see what you think about the impact point. Thanks for all the replies thus far..I REALLY appreciate it!
 
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