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Discussion Starter #1
It's no secret that the factory scar trigger is poop to say the least. I have read from the factory it has a 6lb trigger (that info did not come from FN it is just what i found on the internet). And from what I have read from peoples own measurements stage two breaks around 6.5lbs, and mine averaged at 6lbs 15oz using a Lyman digital trigger pull guage. I have been able to eliminate the creep, lose the sticky first stage( intentionally), and reduce the weight to break clean at 3lb 7oz average.I have not heard much talk on the subject and I am curious to know of anyone else's success or failures with improving the scar trigger.
A little background on myself... I am not yet licensed as a gunsmith. I am an licensed aircraft mechanic. I have been restoring and repairing antique and modern firearms on the side for about 15 years and have done successful triggers on most of my automatics. My AR 10 and Bulgarian AK have had thousands of rounds through them since the trigger work and still break clean with no hicups yet.
Questions, comments, opinions, critisisms are all welcomed
 

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I thought the factory trigger was considered a single stage? I, personally didn't think it was crap-just difficult to get used to it enough to tell where it's going to break once the tension increases. Never-the-less Sarge provided the fix, Gss, show some pics of what you did...


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I would be very interested in seeing pictures and details on your mods:?
 

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IMG_20140119_163204_648.jpg IMG_20140119_163334_531.jpg IMG_20140119_164944_411.jpg Just got done on a Timney #691S trigger installation. Installed trigger and it had as bad of a pull as factory trigger. After a good look the trigger retainer clip had the trigger pulled over and the trigger was tight against the opening in lower, I filed just enough out of trigger opening to fit a piece of the paper card between trigger and lower. Brakes at 3.5# now. MIGHT WANT TO CHECK YOUR CLEARANCES !
 

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View attachment 22727 View attachment 22728 View attachment 22729 Just got done on a Timney #691S trigger installation. Installed trigger and it had as bad of a pull as factory trigger. After a good look the trigger retainer clip had the trigger pulled over and the trigger was tight against the opening in lower, I filed just enough out of trigger opening to fit a piece of the paper card between trigger and lower. Brakes at 3.5# now. MIGHT WANT TO CHECK YOUR CLEARANCES !
My super scar is doing this too
 

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Installed a Geissele super scar trigger in mine. Great mod, trigger works very well. As to side clearance the install instructions that came with my trigger warned of the need to check clearance on the slot the trigger extends through in the trigger housing.
 

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Keep in mind this is a battle rifle not a sniper rifle. I wouldn't waste my time messing with the trigger unless you are going to be taking bench shots out to long distances. I never had a problem in the USMC hitting targets out to 500 yards using open sites and the stock M16A2 trigger. I averaged 9 out of 10 hits and many times I hit 10 for 10.
 

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:xWell my trigger sucked, it felt like dragging a brick across concrete. Yes it is a battle rifle but that doesn't mean you have to put up with a less than a good trigger! And I suppose we'll both be shooting more paper than we will be kickin in doors and yankin a 7 pound trigger .
 

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I had never even thought about custom triggers in over 57 years of shooting everything from M1s, BARs, M1 Carbine, M14 and XM16E1s in addition to civilian ARs. however I finally succumbed to the temptation after my SCR 17 trigger turned out to be quite gritty compared to my SCAR16. Now all I can say is I wish I had tied custom triggers years ago.
 

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It's no secret that the factory scar trigger is poop to say the least. I have read from the factory it has a 6lb trigger (that info did not come from FN it is just what i found on the internet). And from what I have read from peoples own measurements stage two breaks around 6.5lbs, and mine averaged at 6lbs 15oz using a Lyman digital trigger pull guage. I have been able to eliminate the creep, lose the sticky first stage( intentionally), and reduce the weight to break clean at 3lb 7oz average.I have not heard much talk on the subject and I am curious to know of anyone else's success or failures with improving the scar trigger.
A little background on myself... I am not yet licensed as a gunsmith. I am an licensed aircraft mechanic. I have been restoring and repairing antique and modern firearms on the side for about 15 years and have done successful triggers on most of my automatics. My AR 10 and Bulgarian AK have had thousands of rounds through them since the trigger work and still break clean with no hicups yet.
Questions, comments, opinions, critisisms are all welcomed
So what exactly did you do to the stock trigger to achieve this?
 

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Like I said, each is their own. The minor improvement may not be worth taking the chance of damaging your weapon, or creating a safety issue. If anything, I would purchase a new trigger assembly from a known experienced manufacturer.
 

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For the record, the factory trigger in a civilian SCAR 17S is MIM and replacing it with a machined from billet steel part is a longevity upgrade as well as an improvement on the trigger pull.
 

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MIM??

Married In Massachusetts?(ha-ha)
Manufactured Including Misses?

Macaroni Inspired Misdeed?


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MIM = Metal Injection Molding

Generally a cheaper way to manufacture small metal parts - also tends to be less reliable over time/wears out faster.
 
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Thanks, gischileu, I was just being a smartass...
Guess I'm not as funny as I think I am!


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Discussion Starter #20
Bill Springfield produces dangerous triggers. there are more then one report of his work going full auto till the mag is empty. this happens when too much material is taken off of the disconnector....... don't know how he still has his smithing license. work like that can get people killed
 
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