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Shooting Sight striker

11205 Views 71 Replies 29 Participants Last post by  Taylor214
Got the new Shooting Sight striker from Art today. It looks MUCH more substantial than the factory striker. Shipped super fast and installation was very simple. Took maybe 10 minutes only because that little pin is a pain to line up lol. I'm really looking forward to putting it through its paces !
Gun barrel Trigger Video game accessory Gun accessory Electric blue
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No. Factory spring. However I do not believe in lighter springs. Sure, they reduce trigger pull, but in a striker fired gun, the trigger pull is exactly what puts the energy into the striker. So softer springs will reduce striker ignition energy.
How can I go about getting that new striker from you?
Art,

I built my gun in 4 stages,
1. Apex FF trigger and SP magwell
2. Apex Long slide
3. Your ss striker and Mcarbo spring kit
4. Trijicon SRO

During stage one there was a minor improvement in trigger feel however still very gritty as I only put around 50 rounds through it. I did not have cycling issues or failure issues at this point other than 1 dead round.
Stage two I had the LS put on and I had numerous FTC, FTF and FTE. Probably every third round and it was extremely frustrating. The last Apex LS I had didn't have these issues but I figured everything was still relatively new and tolerances were tight. Ripped it apart cleaned and lubed it (per Apex guidelines) and Continued to send rounds. Towards the end of the session I started having fewer malfunctions but they were still present. I shot approximately 200 rds this day.
That night I swapped in your SS striker and mcarbo spring kit and the trigger would not return (Apex jagged sear). I swapped it out with the OE sere and found no issues cycling the action/trigger. Still felt like the trigger was a bit gritty even with your striker but I had no fired it yet.
Stage 3 (today) I ran about 100 rds through it, the first round scared the piss out of me, for some reason I was thinking the wall would be much harder to break. It still had an extremely minor gritty pull but it was a night and day difference. It felt soo great shooting this weapon. My groupings were tighter and follow up shots way faster. I'm amazed. Towards the end of the day the grittiness was completely gone and it was buttery smooth. I had 2 FTF malfunctions today (I'm using 115 grain reloads from GB) that happened around 3 mags apart.
Next week I'll follow up with the SRO and report back my findings.

I feel like that Teflon "shielded" striker partnered with the other items have created the best Stryker fired Pistol I've shot. View attachment 160816
Registered just so I could comment on this. I couldn't find anyone else post their experience with an Apex LS kit.

My stock 509 with Apex striker shot fine. I never felt the grittiness other people complained about. Trigger pull was 5.4lbs on my trigger gauge.
Put on the Apex LS and I'm getting failure to feed and light primer strikes every 4th round. Trigger was crunchy and sand-like. I understand there is probably a break in period, but god damn. By changing the entire top slide, I took a reliable pistol to something I can't trust my life with. After 230 rounds, it became a little better but still occasional LPS and trigger pull weight is a whopping 6.5 lbs.
So i'm searching the internet for how I can make my trigger feel better and come across this thread. Looks like I'll have to try out this striker in the Apex LS.
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Glad it helped, I conceal this, shoot it weekly and have ZERO issues. Be warned though, this setup has a scary light trigger.
Just back from the NRA show in Houston, where I wandered over to the FN booth to show them my 509 with my striker in it. Here are my conclusions:

1. My 509 with my striker, and no other polishing, was significantly less gritty than the two LS Edges they had on display, despite the edges having been cycled many times by the public who stop by to look and feel the guns.
2. FN mentioned that they have also seen issues with after-market sears, so it seems there is still some tuning to do to get those right. I 'think' my longer tailed striker option solves it, though I have only gotten these out to 2 or 3 people so far, so still in Beta testing phase - more data is needed to be definitive.
3. Lighter springs are a reliability problem. In a striker fired gun, trigger pull is how you compress the spring for the striker. If you put in a lighter spring, it reduces the trigger pull, but it also decreases the energy put into the striker, so reduces impact energy. What I do with my strikers is to add NiB coating. This is a low friction coating, so I reduce trigger pull because friction is reduced, without reducing ignition energy.
4. FN are aware of the Glock striker design, where there is a plastic cap over the rear of the striker, preventing metal-metal contact between the striker and the channel in the slide. Unfortunately, I suspect that it would take a complete redesign of the gun to adapt this design concept, so the insert design of the ShootingSight striker is probably the only way to get there in the near term.
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On the bearing surface comment: since the striker spring is pushing forward along the centerline of the striker at the front, but the sear is pulling on the lower edge of the 'tail' at the rear, the striker wants to tip so the rear rises up. Hence it is the top/rear of the striker that has the greatest contact with the inside of the slide channel. So on the FN striker, you see a raised ridge just aft of the cutout. On the Apex you see a raised ring in the profile towards the rear. Those are the bearing surfaces.

On mine, the raised surface is the teflon ring, which is what gives mine the smooth feel.
Art, will the Teflon ring wear over time, and if so, is it replaceable?
I do not expect this to be a problem, though it can easily be replaced if it is. Delrin is used to make bushings for shafts, so as a bearing material it sustains millions of revolutions. I don't see it wearing over a few thousand cycles.
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I just ordered this striker last Saturday and I’m anxiously waiting to install it. I’m not sure if it has been asked before but is it safe to dry fire? I know FN and Apex recommend not to even though the Apex is supposedly beefier.
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I recently purchased a new full-size with a factory flat face trigger. It has the upgraded striker design and I think it was absolutely horrible compared to my others with the original striker. Will the factory FN flat face trigger require the longer tail version of your striker or will the shorter one be the correct replacement?
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I own a stock FNS 9 bronze slide that has the “upgraded” striker from FN. I’ve got about 1000 rounds through mine and it still feels gritty. I will post my results here with the new shootingsight striker once I receive mine! Just placed an order.
Just installed the SS striker in my FNS9. Range this weekend, so we’ll see.
So I believe there’s a fairly serious problem with at least some of these strikers. My FNS-9 has the OEM trigger, and was under FN’s “voluntary” recall, where FN’s solution was a striker replacement.

Rather than return the weapon, I installed the Apex striker with excellent results. No stoppages or odd behavior.

A few months ago I stumbled upon this thread, and grabbed the ShootingSight striker. I made sure to order the stock trigger version; installed it, and the weapon functioned ok (no trigger improvement though, as indicated on the builder’s website). But ok.

However, Tuesday I shot. During a string, the weapon went to slide lock on empty. I inserted a new magazine, released the slide, and began a trigger press. Uh oh. The trigger shoe had not reset to the ready position. I cleared the weapon; removed the magazine; inserted the ejected round back into the magazine; and racked the slide. All ok.

But. My FNS has NEVER exhibited that behavior. I continued shooting, and the issue did not recur. However, since this weapon is my EDC, this type of failure is unacceptable, and potentially dangerous.

I’ve since reinstalled the Apex striker. I don’t care about a refund, but the manufacturer should take note.

This is the last time I purchase a firearm part from an un-vetted source.
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Sounds to me like a problem with your sear. The trigger resets when the slide cycles and the disconnector releases the sear so it pops up, then the 'tail' of the striker latches behind the sear and pulls the sear and attached trigger linkage forward. If the slide went forward and the tail did not catch the sear, something is wrong.

However since the tail of the striker is a solid part and did not get shorter to cause the issue (and then get longer to cause the issue to go away), my guess is that somehow the sear did not completely pop up when the slide went back. Take a look inside the sear mechanism to see if there is crud in there that is potentially blocking free movement.
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Sounds to me like a problem with your sear. The trigger resets when the slide cycles and the disconnector releases the sear so it pops up, then the 'tail' of the striker latches behind the sear and pulls the sear and attached trigger linkage forward. If the slide went forward and the tail did not catch the sear, something is wrong.

However since the tail of the striker is a solid part and did not get shorter to cause the issue (and then get longer to cause the issue to go away), my guess is that somehow the sear did not completely pop up when the slide went back. Take a look inside the sear mechanism to see if there is crud in there that is potentially blocking free movement.
The sear is clean, as is the entire weapon. After reinstalling the Apex striker, and shooting roughly 300 rounds, the issue no longer manifests.
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