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Discussion Starter #1
Well, i did the grip mod successfully and mounted my moe k2 without issue. However, trimming the grip frame also answered my own question of "does it strongly impact the strength of the lower", as it cracked this weekend after heavy use during a cold michigan winter.

It cracked on both sides of where the screw goes into the grip right before the steel nut - the part you shave down. It cracked during a fast transition to prone and i'm guessing with the mag hitting the ground and the grip in my hand... The lack of plastic couldn't handle the force and cracked.


The rifle is still 100% functional, but there is definitely a crack, as i heard it, removed the grip, and saw the crack.

i inquired about a replacement from stryker, and his quote on the lower is 130. Prior to the mod, everyone was saying the lowers are only $50, so i ask - who has the $50 fde lowers?

I can post some pics when i get a chance, but its exactly as i described. A little disappointing on a 2 week old SCAR.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've read online that the lower is like $48 or something. Just didn't know where someone got it for that price.

Also - I did try and go about *not* modding the lower and just the grip. I actually had a 3 page thread on the topic, voicing these very concerns. I guess it is a bit ironic that it broke within days of that thread.

http://fnforum.net/forums/scar-acce...ne-modified-moe-rubberized-grip-fit-scar.html

So the rifle is still functional, and because of how it is built (because the screw threads into the lower as well as the nut), I can't see it really failing any more than it already has. So short term, I'm just going back to using a different rifle for any type of competition, and this will become a recreational rifle. I guess I can wait to get a billet lower, which is really what I would feel better with when shooting in a colder environment.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
is there any difference from the FNHUSA part and the ones Stryker carries? I'm not in any huge hurry so waiting a month or two for it isn't a big deal - even if it isn't in stock currently.
 

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1.jpg :-D


Seriously though, I would not use the rifle until you get a new lower module. It may still work with the crack, but a damaged rifle is an unsafe rifle.
 

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is there any difference from the FNHUSA part and the ones Stryker carries? I'm not in any huge hurry so waiting a month or two for it isn't a big deal - even if it isn't in stock currently.
Nope, they are the exact same ones. MGW also gets them from FNHUSA parts.
 

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If FNH Parts really sells them for $48, that that is 50+% markup? yuck! I'll give FNH a call later and see what the scoop is.
Yep, capitalism is cold hearted b!7€h. Supply and demand drives the market price. Sorry....
 

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Is there any chance that over torquing the screw might have been a factor? FNH polymer is pretty tough, my PS90 and FS2000 hammer packs are polymer and after 1,000's of rounds they show no signs of deformation.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I cut the tang to the exact same size as my other AR-15 lower grip tangs. I took the template I made and checked it on a SIG 516 and a noveske chainsaw lower.

Here is my theory... I must have torqued down the grip more than it should have been and and then there was more than likely some extra space between the tang and the grip (even though I kept checking it while I cut it down) and when the rifle hit the ground, I'm guessing the force of the impact as well as temperature caused the plastic to crack. I think it was a combination of things. I haven't gone in there with calipers, but I'm guessing that is what happened.

I'm guessing this isn't a widespread problem because most shooters aren't out there shooting in 5-10 degree winter weather. or dropping to the ground in the snow with a $2500 rifle.

Either way, I would really hope that the polymer would have a little more elasticity. Right now, I am not all that confident in this platform as a cold weather gun. What happens if the rifle takes a dive during the winter, will the mag well crack? What about the front lug holes for the take down pin?

So while we're at it - what is the proper torque value for the hand-guard screw?
 

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Either way, I would really hope that the polymer would have a little more elasticity. Right now, I am not all that confident in this platform as a cold weather gun. What happens if the rifle takes a dive during the winter, will the mag well crack?
Test a non-bubba'ed SCAR and then form an opinion.
 

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AFAIK there are several members who have used the weapon in extreme cold scenarios. There was a post a while back where a user was testing out his SCAR17/elcan by letting them sit directly in the snow for several hours before firing.

i for one have faith in the weapon regardless of temperature. I would attribute this failure solely on the modification made to the lower, as well as possible over-torquing.
 
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