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Discussion Starter #1
Hello gang...

I guess this would be the perfect example not to use sh!t remanufactured loads..... urrggghhhhh..

got to about the 200 rds on my new 17s and then... rounds did not further chamber...

took it home.. rested and then cleaned... after cleaning the upper receiver and the Bolt carrier and receiver ... no chamber...

looked further through the barrel.... and BAMM.... there it is .... or should I say... no light passing through... WTF..

Took a flashlight and .... there it is .... what appears to be the bullet lodge approx 1.5 inch from the feed ramps...

What do I do... I search on the internet and most say that this can be a tricky situation as the barrel may get permanently damaged not only from this event but specially from its removal..

Will FN replace this as I'm not even two weeks in owning the arm or does this kind of thing go directly to a gunsmith.

Should i get the retailer who sold me the cartridges involve? and even I did, what can they do to resolve... and how far will they help as to remedying the situation.

urrrgghhh...

help
 

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If this happened to my new gun, especially to my expensive SCAR, I would have had a heart attack.

I am so anal about ruining my gun barrels and losing accuracy.

I wonder if you were lucky that the bullets didn't chamber. I wonder what would have happened if you were able to fire a bullet.
 

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I hope this wasn't freedom munitions, I just ordered ammo from them.
As far as the squib load I have had several before and I just took a cleaning rod and knocked it out. Not a metal cleaning rod either. Never had any damage to the barrel after a visual inspection. Get the bullet out first then check your barrel. You may not even have to worry and just carry on. Also you can use some gun oil or a wooden rod of some type if your really concerned.
 

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I call bullpoop on the internet. No, you will not damage your barrel.

If you did manage to load another round behind it, especially if there were a gap between them, then you could have done some damage, but you are fine if you just jammed one in there.

What happened was that the powder did not drop. Normally, in fully automatic equipment there is a finger that goes down into a case prior to seating the bullet, to confirm that the powder is there. If someone is using a semi-auto, that is not the case. So the primer is enough to just launch the bullet out of the case and into the throat. Luckily, it travelled too little distance, so a new round would not fit in behind it.

All you do is get a cleaning rod or dowel, and run it in from the muzzle and tap it out. A load with a partial powder charge that gets it part way down the barrel might have been more difficult to remove, but if it is just north of the chamber, I'll be a single tap will knock it out.

Uncoated steel rods are less desirable, because you don't want to ding the crown. Plastic coated cleaning rods are better, or a brass rod. Nice thing is that it is 30 cal, so a 1/4" rod will fit fine. Lowes might sell 3' sections of aluminum or brass. Or get a 3' steel rod, and then either wrap electrical tape where it passes near the muzzle, or look into shrink tubing that you put over the rod.

Even a plain old steel rod is likely fine. Barrels are made out of high quality steel, a one time light brush with a steel rod will be very unlikely to do anything to it.

Art

PS The reason I am so confident that this is a non-issue is because I did exactly the same thing with an M1 Garand. 30-06 vs 308, but otherwise the same. My very first batch of reloads, I missed a powder charge. The guy next to me at the range had a cleaning rod, and we didn't even need a hammer, we just popped it with the rod a few times and out it came, and I went back to shooting the match.
 

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From the SCAR 17 owners manual...

For that reason, the rifle has been sold under the express understanding
that FNH USA declines any responsibility and invalidates any guarantee and
liability claims for incidental or consequential damages, injuries, loss of
use of property, commercial loss, loss of earnings and profits, resulting in
whole or partly from:

the use of reloaded ammunition...


They may fix it, but not for free. Or they will just tell you you need a new barrel. I would consult local gunsmiths and see if they feel comfortable extracting the lodged bullet.You could always call FN USA and ask for their advise. Be honest up front. Don't try to hide the fact you were using reloads.

 

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I personally would try and knock out the bullet myself as shooting sight recommended. I know that I would be very careful not to damage my barrel or crown.

I know from experience, from auto mechanics that they are such hack jobs and don't care about their work or are too stupid to know better. The person you sent your gun to may just take any piece of steel and start hammering away doing extra damage.

I tried researching squib loads and I found something useful. This is from a Springfield gun but FN may have the same policy.

Speaking from personal experience the way this will be handled is very simple... Call Springfield, tell them what happened get an email address to send them the pictures.. Springfield emails you a call tag you go down to the UPS hub and ship the gun back to Springfield. Springfield receives your pistol, does a factory refurbish on it, replaces the obviously bad barrel. They ship your pistol back to you. At the end of the month Springfield sends a bill to Federal and any other Ammo manufacturer that had an ammor related warranty claim. Federal receives the invoice cuts Springfield a check.

End of story no drama period.
 

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Sucks that it happened & sorry to you but sounds like you learned the lesson of not going on the cheap,with respect to ammo. Reloads seem to cause issues. I would try to knock it out with the cleaning rod; worst case as was said just buy a new barrel only I would file for the SBR barrel:)


BBG-
 

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+1 on what shootingsight said. I'd get a .250 steel rod and wrap it with tape. Probably would come out with the force of dropping the rod in the barrel.

Ive done it on an AR with cleaning rods, but with a 30 cal, a thin rod tip will won't contact the bullet tip squarely; probably jam against the bore and bullet. Wonder if someone makes something suitable?
 

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This should be considered an important lesson, which is taught in every basic firearm safety course. When a round of ammunition squibs, the recoil impulse is significantly weaker then normal. Being able to identify this immediately is a necessity to safely operate a firearm. I've had several squibs when practicing with remanufactured ammo and carry a wooden dowel and mallet in my range bag. Be thankful you did not fire a round behind the squib. Don't be this guy!
 

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Squib and underpowered loads happen for many reasons and a quick search shows that it is not uncommon. ShootingSight has the right fix. Brass or taped up rod. Enter from the muzzle end and gently tap the round into the chamber. Kroil or other penetrating oil can be used if needed. In general stay away from wooden dowels since they can splinter and really jam up. There are other advanced methods to extract a squib if needed, but try the simple methods first.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks all for your input as I am first probably going to push it out with a wooden dowel. If I meet some great resistance, then off to the gunsmith I will. Just cringing to think on what I have to do but the barrel are Cold Hammer Forged and I believe this means quality and hopefully some minor manipulations will not hurt the barrel when specially barrel assemblies at $1500 a pop.. urrrggghhh....






I call bullpoop on the internet. No, you will not damage your barrel.

If you did manage to load another round behind it, especially if there were a gap between them, then you could have done some damage, but you are fine if you just jammed one in there.

What happened was that the powder did not drop. Normally, in fully automatic equipment there is a finger that goes down into a case prior to seating the bullet, to confirm that the powder is there. If someone is using a semi-auto, that is not the case. So the primer is enough to just launch the bullet out of the case and into the throat. Luckily, it travelled too little distance, so a new round would not fit in behind it.

All you do is get a cleaning rod or dowel, and run it in from the muzzle and tap it out. A load with a partial powder charge that gets it part way down the barrel might have been more difficult to remove, but if it is just north of the chamber, I'll be a single tap will knock it out.

Uncoated steel rods are less desirable, because you don't want to ding the crown. Plastic coated cleaning rods are better, or a brass rod. Nice thing is that it is 30 cal, so a 1/4" rod will fit fine. Lowes might sell 3' sections of aluminum or brass. Or get a 3' steel rod, and then either wrap electrical tape where it passes near the muzzle, or look into shrink tubing that you put over the rod.

Even a plain old steel rod is likely fine. Barrels are made out of high quality steel, a one time light brush with a steel rod will be very unlikely to do anything to it.

Art

PS The reason I am so confident that this is a non-issue is because I did exactly the same thing with an M1 Garand. 30-06 vs 308, but otherwise the same. My very first batch of reloads, I missed a powder charge. The guy next to me at the range had a cleaning rod, and we didn't even need a hammer, we just popped it with the rod a few times and out it came, and I went back to shooting the match.

I agree with what you said regarding a second round not fitting behind it as all subsequent attempts to chamber a round did not allow the cartridge to completely sit into the throat. And this is true because all cartridges inspected after this attempt, bullets appeared seated further back into the casing.

oh BTW, I am posting proof on remanufactured round defects as the video
illustrate a fraction of second delay from when the primer is struck to the actual fire....

thanks all...

will have to get a good meal, put my thinking cap on and work on this tonight...

Man this sucks as its memorial day and all I wanted to do is dedicate it to our fallen heroes and maybe fire a couple sets...

will provide feedback post interventions....
 

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I agree that a wodden dowel might not be the best bet. If the tip of the bullet gets between the grain and splits the base of the dowel, it might jam. However, even this is low risk. Wood versus hammer forged steel is no contest.

Personally, I think you are worrying too much. THis is not a delicate piece of equipment. A little spanking won't hurt it. More likely, turn it on.

Every time you pull the trigger, you put 50,000 PSI in that barrel. I don't think you could duplicate that with a hammer, even if you tried.
 

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i use an old one piece cleaning rod for tapping out obstructions.

ive had 3 squibs two in ar15 one in my sig p220 tapping the bullet out has always worked fine no damage to the gun. if there isnt enough pressure to eject the bullet out of the muzzle its not possible for a squib by itself to damage the gun.

damage comes from not paying attention to what your doing, not opening the gun to check the bore on malfunction, and jamming in another round and then touching it off with an obstructed bore.

since you stopped when the gun stopped and then looked no harm was done.

always inspect the bore with any stoppage. if you had a partial powder charge or the primer got the bullet a little further and you then loaded a fresh round that would have damaged your gun severely.

again always inspect the bore with any abnormal function of the rifle or pistol.

tap out the round you will be fine
 

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This has happened to me a few times with m1as and crap ammo (it has never happened to me with good stuff). Just be gentle and patient tapping it out. Your barrel will be fine. My m1as that had this happened shot fine afterward and, many thousands of rounds later, still do.
 

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This should be considered an important lesson, which is taught in every basic firearm safety course. When a round of ammunition squibs, the recoil impulse is significantly weaker then normal. Being able to identify this immediately is a necessity to safely operate a firearm. I've had several squibs when practicing with remanufactured ammo and carry a wooden dowel and mallet in my range bag. Be thankful you did not fire a round behind the squib. Don't be this guy!
Couldn't agree more. I remember cringing the first time I saw this video. I showed it to my nephew when I was teaching him to shoot. I remember telling him the first commandment of shooting was to never make assumptions but instead check.
 

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thanks all for your input as I am first probably going to push it out with a wooden dowel. If I meet some great resistance, then off to the gunsmith I will. Just cringing to think on what I have to do but the barrel are Cold Hammer Forged and I believe this means quality and hopefully some minor manipulations will not hurt the barrel when specially barrel assemblies at $1500 a pop.. urrrggghhh....









I agree with what you said regarding a second round not fitting behind it as all subsequent attempts to chamber a round did not allow the cartridge to completely sit into the throat. And this is true because all cartridges inspected after this attempt, bullets appeared seated further back into the casing.

oh BTW, I am posting proof on remanufactured round defects as the video
illustrate a fraction of second delay from when the primer is struck to the actual fire....

thanks all...

will have to get a good meal, put my thinking cap on and work on this tonight...

Man this sucks as its memorial day and all I wanted to do is dedicate it to our fallen heroes and maybe fire a couple sets...

will provide feedback post interventions....

Interesting. I don't have the benefit of video for the squibs I experienced, and it has been a few years, but I don't remember a delay.

Based on my experience, other posters here, and a few friends who have had squibs, I think it highly unlikely anything is wrong with your barrel. It is most likely fine. Just clear the squib and have a qualified person take a look at the weapon before you fire it again. On this forum Sarge and Talhoffer come to mind (and if they can't do it they know who can).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
hello gang...

got it out.... whew.....

did the wooden dowel suggestions but unfortunately, the wood split like soft pine with the smallest tap. Fortunately, I found my good ole dewey and tapped it with a rubber mallet...

was able to knock it out on the second attempt...

like I said ... whew....

on examining the barrel... looked good to me but what do I know. However, with the smallest amount of force from the rod cleaner I was able to dislodge it, very unlikely I did any damage...
Ran the swabs... through... blacker than the volcanic beaches of Hawaii.....

on showing the video, I just wanted to illustrate how I believe this may have been from this batch of rounds I purchased as I had a couple that had this similar delay. I thought it was odd ... but best explained why the squib load happened.

Believe me, I was just video taping myself cuz I never thought I would own such a beautiful rifle and couldn't stop admiring it. $2700+ do not come easy to me sir... and I worked my butt off to purchased this firearm.

No it was not Freedommunitions as I had purchased from them but hadn't used yet. A batch of 9mm I did purchased from them however had 0 failures....

I won't divulge the company publicly however if you PM me, I will tell you. Their rounds upon receiving did appear less desirable than freedom munitions as the weren't as shiny and clean.

Didn't matter to me as long as they weren't steel cased.

well... thanks all and Happy Memorial Day...

going shooting after all....

E
 

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Good to hear.....I've heard of two methods..One is a dowel(Brass or polymer)....The second method was from a gunsmith....Use a blank!..Personally I would never use a blank since the pressure produced would likely blow the barrel up.
 
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This should be considered an important lesson, which is taught in every basic firearm safety course. When a round of ammunition squibs, the recoil impulse is significantly weaker then normal. Being able to identify this immediately is a necessity to safely operate a firearm. I've had several squibs when practicing with remanufactured ammo and carry a wooden dowel and mallet in my range bag. Be thankful you did not fire a round behind the squib. Don't be this guy!
This also could have been avoided by looking at the "bad primer" rounds. Missing bullet, hummmm.....
 
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