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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last night, I started the relatively simple process of installing the Midwest Industries SCAR SSR rail on my SCAR 17. Everything was going fine until I stripped one of the screws I was trying to remove. Specifically, it is the left screw that hold the front plate in place (I'm not sure of its exact nomenclature). I used heat per the directions and the right screw came out easily but the left one stripped. I already tried all the "easy" remedies for stripped screws but, alas, no joy. I need help from the experts. Has anyone encountered this problem? How do I remove this screw without damaging anything? I don't care if the screw is destroyed in the process since alternates were provided. Any good ideas on removing it? Thanks for your help; I really appreciate it.
 

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Do you mean the thread stripped?

Or do you mean the torx socket "cammed out"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I suppose that is a big difference... The socket has "cammed out" and the hex wrench now just spins. The threads for the actual screw and its housing are still solidly intact. Thanks for the reply. Any ideas?
 

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I had something similar happened to me. Check you Allen key to see if the end has gotten a little bit rounded. I purchased a new one reheated the screw and it was out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Glad it worked out for you. I tried the same thing. I bought a new set of hex wrenches just to be sure. No luck. Thanks a lot for the suggestion, though.
 

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For stripped hex screws, I usually dremel out a slot for a flat head. But you might want to check to see if your hex wrench is the right scale and size first. I can't remember whether scar screws are metric or imperial but the correct sized wrench might still be able to get the screw out.

If you don't feel comfortable about doing any of that then get a gunsmith (or a mechanic/machinist) to do it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm probably going to have to try the Dremel suggestion. The hex wrench that I have fits perfectly in the screw on the other side but that's a good observation that I didn't think of.
 

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For stripped hex screws, I usually dremel out a slot for a flat head. But you might want to check to see if your hex wrench is the right scale and size first. I can't remember whether scar screws are metric or imperial but the correct sized wrench might still be able to get the screw out.

If you don't feel comfortable about doing any of that then get a gunsmith (or a mechanic/machinist) to do it for you.
I'm pretty sure that screw (and all the other little f***ers) is 2.5mm...and possibly made of hardened butter, because I stripped one myself.
 

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have to tried to heat under the screw? I know you wont be able to get all around it but should be able to get most of it. Also if you have a thin gun cleaning patch, like hoppes, try to put that over the screw and than use Allen key to remove it, may it just need some extra grip?
 

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Yeah, that screw can be a b!tch. One came out easy, one not so much... Haven't gotten around to getting it out, will probably dremel for a flat head at some point.
 

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I stripped one of the rear screws on my 16 for my gg&g qd socket....man i was ****ting...I just messed up a NIB $2500 plus rifle....so i did what anyone with technology would do...i Googled it. I then came to the conclusion that a heat gun and Kroil would fix it....i pounded a larger torx screw into the head of the allen after heating it until the kroil smoked....and boom came right out!
 

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Last night, I started the relatively simple process of installing the Midwest Industries SCAR SSR rail on my SCAR 17. Everything was going fine until I stripped one of the screws I was trying to remove. Specifically, it is the left screw that hold the front plate in place (I'm not sure of its exact nomenclature). I used heat per the directions and the right screw came out easily but the left one stripped. I already tried all the "easy" remedies for stripped screws but, alas, no joy. I need help from the experts. Has anyone encountered this problem? How do I remove this screw without damaging anything? I don't care if the screw is destroyed in the process since alternates were provided. Any good ideas on removing it? Thanks for your help; I really appreciate it.
Oh that one.

Here is what I would do...

Get a quality 7/64" allen T-handle wrench and file the end to a slight 45* bevel then file sides just a little. I don't want to fit, but almost fit. Then I would heat the snot out of the screw just to make sure I disabled the thread locker. It is not so much that you want to heat the screw super hot as you want to heat soak it to make sure the upper isn't wicking the heat away like a big heat sink and keeping the deeper threads cool.

After it is well heated, heat soaked for several minutes to the highest temp you are willing to take it, hammer the T-handle into the socket with a hammer, force it in there.

Now here is the trick, do not twist it hard, rather keep a little twisting pressure on it and keep tapping the T-handle like it is an air impact taking off lug nuts from the wheel of your car. The constant rapping on a hot fastener is what will break it loose without camming it out again.

Good luck.
 

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i pounded a larger torx screw into the head of the allen after heating it until the kroil smoked....and boom came right out!
This is what Ive done before. Might help to go metric also you don't want to damage the head. Just enought to get a snug fit, once it's out throw the hex bit out.
 

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Try a left handed dill bit. Harbor freight actually has some decent ones but only the ones in a blue metal case. They got me out of a huge jam dealing with a stuck ATV carb jet
 

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A T-10 torx bit is too small and a T-15 is too large. To me, a 7/64" allen wrench filed to almost fit will make a more solid engagement that a T-15 that also probably needs to be filed to fit. An allen wrench will engage all six sides of the hole as well as the corners. A T-15 will only engage the corners of the hole.

With the allen wrench method you can cut the tip of the allen off when you are done and still have a useful tool. Not so much with a torx.
 
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Been there. Done that like the Dremel slot idea but have used bolt extractors. Easy to find at hardware store. Works likes the left handed drill bit above and will grab and torque it out.
 
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