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Stripped Screw Help

9795 Views 20 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Rusty
Last night, I started the relatively simple process of installing the Midwest Industries SCAR SSR rail on my SCAR 17. Everything was going fine until I stripped one of the screws I was trying to remove. Specifically, it is the left screw that hold the front plate in place (I'm not sure of its exact nomenclature). I used heat per the directions and the right screw came out easily but the left one stripped. I already tried all the "easy" remedies for stripped screws but, alas, no joy. I need help from the experts. Has anyone encountered this problem? How do I remove this screw without damaging anything? I don't care if the screw is destroyed in the process since alternates were provided. Any good ideas on removing it? Thanks for your help; I really appreciate it.

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Do you mean the thread stripped?

Or do you mean the torx socket "cammed out"?
Last night, I started the relatively simple process of installing the Midwest Industries SCAR SSR rail on my SCAR 17. Everything was going fine until I stripped one of the screws I was trying to remove. Specifically, it is the left screw that hold the front plate in place (I'm not sure of its exact nomenclature). I used heat per the directions and the right screw came out easily but the left one stripped. I already tried all the "easy" remedies for stripped screws but, alas, no joy. I need help from the experts. Has anyone encountered this problem? How do I remove this screw without damaging anything? I don't care if the screw is destroyed in the process since alternates were provided. Any good ideas on removing it? Thanks for your help; I really appreciate it.
Oh that one.

Here is what I would do...

Get a quality 7/64" allen T-handle wrench and file the end to a slight 45* bevel then file sides just a little. I don't want to fit, but almost fit. Then I would heat the snot out of the screw just to make sure I disabled the thread locker. It is not so much that you want to heat the screw super hot as you want to heat soak it to make sure the upper isn't wicking the heat away like a big heat sink and keeping the deeper threads cool.

After it is well heated, heat soaked for several minutes to the highest temp you are willing to take it, hammer the T-handle into the socket with a hammer, force it in there.

Now here is the trick, do not twist it hard, rather keep a little twisting pressure on it and keep tapping the T-handle like it is an air impact taking off lug nuts from the wheel of your car. The constant rapping on a hot fastener is what will break it loose without camming it out again.

Good luck.
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A T-10 torx bit is too small and a T-15 is too large. To me, a 7/64" allen wrench filed to almost fit will make a more solid engagement that a T-15 that also probably needs to be filed to fit. An allen wrench will engage all six sides of the hole as well as the corners. A T-15 will only engage the corners of the hole.

With the allen wrench method you can cut the tip of the allen off when you are done and still have a useful tool. Not so much with a torx.
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