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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've learned a lot from recent threads but thought I'd start fresh.

The can is the Saker 7.62. I have 5.56 Saker muzzle brake to install on SCAR 16S. I understand silencerco says to NOT use crush washers. I got flat shim washers/kits from brownells. Are they the ones to use? Anything to watch out for when installing the brakes on SCAR 16S in particular, AND on AR-15 and Steyr AUG? Will the shims work for all of these applications?

I also have 7.62 trifecta FH and brake to install on bolt guns and hopefully someday a 17S. I have the Geissele alignment rods in 5.56 aND 7.62.

Would rather not spend another $180 for the SCAR receiver bench block thing if I don't REALLY need it. Can you just place the upper in a padded vise and remove PWS brake? Will this somehow torque upper/barrel too much?

Sorry for stupid questions, and Thanks!
 

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I know this doesn't answer your question, but I have a Saker 556 on my M4 and recently removed the trifecta flash hider and replaced the MAAD mount with direct thread.

Doing so reduced the overall length and weight and you don't have to worry about washers.

More importantly, however, was that now I don't have any more issues with removing the suppressor from the flash hider mount. No matter how clean burning my ammo was or the fact I scraped and cleaned that flash hider mount after every shooting, inevitably the Saker would get stuck or I'd have to use a lot of elbow grease.

Just something for your consideration.
 

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Loosen six fasterner screws from upper
remove barrel assembly
Clamp barrel in vise
use 2 wrenchs turning one on the pws the other on the barrel nut
Remove pws and nut

If you have a 16inch barrel no need to remove assembly just clamp on exposed barrel
 

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Use the shims that came with the SilencerCo muzzle brake. They have a little tighter tolerances that some other shims. Do not use the barrel nut or a crush washer. In the packet of shims from SilencerCo there is a large silver shim. Try not to use that if possible but you might have to. Start with the smallest shim first and see if you can align it. If not start adding shims. If you notice that the shims are warping or not staying center then use the large shim. That shim has two sides that are slightly different so you might have to play with it.

AR-15's are the same way as above although odds are you won't need the large shim. It has been a while since I messed with an AUG but it should be the same as the AR.

If you have any questions while you are doing this feel free to call me and I can help you out. I'm at the office from 9-6 central time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know this doesn't answer your question, but I have a Saker 556 on my M4 and recently removed the trifecta flash hider and replaced the MAAD mount with direct thread.

Doing so reduced the overall length and weight and you don't have to worry about washers.

More importantly, however, was that now I don't have any more issues with removing the suppressor from the flash hider mount. No matter how clean burning my ammo was or the fact I scraped and cleaned that flash hider mount after every shooting, inevitably the Saker would get stuck or I'd have to use a lot of elbow grease.

Just something for your consideration.
Thanks for reporting your experiences. Since I shoot VASTLY more often unsuppressed than suppressed, I plan to keep a muzzle device mounted to each barrel.

Anyone's tips on keeping FH/Brakes clean enough to easily remove suppressor each time are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Loosen six fasterner screws from upper
remove barrel assembly
Clamp barrel in vise
use 2 wrenchs turning one on the pws the other on the barrel nut
Remove pws and nut

If you have a 16inch barrel no need to remove assembly just clamp on exposed barrel
Thanks. I have 16" barrel but also have the PWS SRX mounted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Shims are included with the brake. If you didn't get them let me know and I can get you some.
I got 3 5.56 brakes and one 7.62 FH and didn't see any shims, 5.56 or 7.62. I'll take another look in the box.

Couple things for clarification (again I thank you for your patience):

1. is removing the barrel necessary for mounting the brake/FH? or can you clamp the upper in a vise?
2. do you use red threadlocker on brake/FH for final installation/torque?
 

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1. is removing the barrel necessary for mounting the brake/FH? or can you clamp the upper in a vis
Yes. You can damage the upper receiver if you clamp on it.

2. do you use red threadlocker on brake/FH for final installation/torque
Rocksett is what you want . Loctite is not heat resistant and will melt off right away
 

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Thanks for reporting your experiences. Since I shoot VASTLY more often unsuppressed than suppressed, I plan to keep a muzzle device mounted to each barrel.

Anyone's tips on keeping FH/Brakes clean enough to easily remove suppressor each time are welcome.
FIREClean works great just coat the brake and carbon comes right off.
 

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The SCAR16 has a shoulder on the barrel so you don't have problems like on the 17.

If you don't have barrel blocks you can make them easy. Take a 2x4 about 3.5" long, drill a hole smaller than the diameter of your barrel through it, cut in half, and you have yourself some barrel blocks to use in the vise.

You could use the SCAR specific barrel blocks that wrap around the gas block (needed for SBR), but they are expensive.

If you have an AUG, I haven't see that Silencerco makes a mount with AUG threads. You could get the AAC/YHM module and then use an AAC/YHM mount.

Keep your mount oiled as said with some fireclean or whatever you want. Also, bring a leather glove to let you break the can loose from the mount while it's still hot. That will take care of most issues with your can getting stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The SCAR16 has a shoulder on the barrel so you don't have problems like on the 17.

If you don't have barrel blocks you can make them easy. Take a 2x4 about 3.5" long, drill a hole smaller than the diameter of your barrel through it, cut in half, and you have yourself some barrel blocks to use in the vise.

You could use the SCAR specific barrel blocks that wrap around the gas block (needed for SBR), but they are expensive.

If you have an AUG, I haven't see that Silencerco makes a mount with AUG threads. You could get the AAC/YHM module and then use an AAC/YHM mount.

Keep your mount oiled as said with some fireclean or whatever you want. Also, bring a leather glove to let you break the can loose from the mount while it's still hot. That will take care of most issues with your can getting stuck.
Thanks. I just assumed the AUG would have similar threads to the "standard." I'll look into it further. It belongs to a guy in the trust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Double checked in the silencerco box. No shims were included. Anyone know if there's a thread adapter for AUG threads to standard AR type threads so I can just use one MAAD module for all rifles?
 

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Double checked in the silencerco box. No shims were included. Anyone know if there's a thread adapter for AUG threads to standard AR type threads so I can just use one MAAD module for all rifles?
You said you got the 7.62 flash hider correct? Flash hiders don't use shims.

Here is your AUG adapter https://www.ratworxusa.com/node/230
 
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