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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever since I got my 17 two years ago, I've been tinkering with it. Certain things I liked and others I did not.

I put on PMM rear QD's, which are a good product, but I was really annoyed with how the sling would come up in my face when taking a check weld. I finally had enough and the rear QD had to go. When I went to remove them, and I'm quite careful and aware of stripping screws and bolts, the inevitable happens. I stripped the hex. It seems maybe the loctite (blue) stiffened up enough where the small gauge hex couldn't hold up. I really wish the product would have been made with torx head.

The first one stripped and of course I was freaking out . The way my day was going guys what happens next, the second one stripped as well. Frustration does not describe the feeling that went through me. My baby felt crippled.

So what to do? How about taking the smallest carbide bit in my toolbox and drilling that thing out like a cavity. There is not a more sickening feeling than having your favorite piece of equipment get "DRILLED" from the back against its will. Not to mention, the operating space and margin for error were a small as it gets if you know how the PMM rear QD installs.

So after about 20 minutes of work and stressing the entire time, with unimaginable relief I managed to get those darn things off. NOT a scratch in my 17s. Just a boat load of aluminum shavings. Of course I cleaned the living daylights out of 17S including the rear sights. The last thing I want is aluminum shavings reciprocating with the BCG.

I guess this is more venting and giving out some info that if you strip your PMM rear QD and want to get it off, there is a way. Albeit a darn scary one, but effective nonetheless.
 

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Left handed drill bit would probably work pretty good. I use them for removing stuck jets in carbs. Next time you take a screw with locktite off give it a little heat first
 

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I guess this is more venting and giving out some info that if you strip your PMM rear QD and want to get it off, there is a way. Albeit a darn scary one, but effective nonetheless.

This is big problem in the firearms industry.

TORX/HEX/ALLEN/ANY

They ALL strip.

Why the eff do they not just use regular flathead screws, as these would strip less than any other form factor?

Beats me.

Glad you were able to get it out. I've had to use a drill to remove stripped screws on 3k$ platforms, so I understand how you feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Left handed drill bit would probably work pretty good. I use them for removing stuck jets in carbs. Next time you take a screw with locktite off give it a little heat first
I didn't, I just didn't think the allen heads could handle that little torque.
 

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Ever since I got my 17 two years ago, I've been tinkering with it. Certain things I liked and others I did not.

I put on PMM rear QD's, which are a good product, but I was really annoyed with how the sling would come up in my face when taking a check weld. I finally had enough and the rear QD had to go.
What type of sling setup are you going with now?
 

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Heat will help loosen the Locktite. Some solvents will as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What type of sling setup are you going with now?
I went back to the Blue Force Gear loop through the lower rear sling attachment hole. A 2 to 1 QD above the rear attachment point. BFG padded sling with QD at the front. It was worth experimenting to figure out the trade offs and what really works well for me. The current set-up works very well for me. It does not interfere with cheek weld and has the functionality and mobility I like.
 

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I did the same thing putting on my KDG rear qd mount. Ended up drilling it out on the drill press and using a left hand bit to get it out. Used a heat gun (could use a hairdryer) to loosen the loffice beforehand. Maybe I should've done that first and wouldn't have had to do all that work!
 

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Ever since I got my 17 two years ago, I've been tinkering with it. Certain things I liked and others I did not.

I put on PMM rear QD's, which are a good product, but I was really annoyed with how the sling would come up in my face when taking a check weld. I finally had enough and the rear QD had to go. When I went to remove them, and I'm quite careful and aware of stripping screws and bolts, the inevitable happens. I stripped the hex. It seems maybe the loctite (blue) stiffened up enough where the small gauge hex couldn't hold up. I really wish the product would have been made with torx head.

The first one stripped and of course I was freaking out . The way my day was going guys what happens next, the second one stripped as well. Frustration does not describe the feeling that went through me. My baby felt crippled.

So what to do? How about taking the smallest carbide bit in my toolbox and drilling that thing out like a cavity. There is not a more sickening feeling than having your favorite piece of equipment get "DRILLED" from the back against its will. Not to mention, the operating space and margin for error were a small as it gets if you know how the PMM rear QD installs.

So after about 20 minutes of work and stressing the entire time, with unimaginable relief I managed to get those darn things off. NOT a scratch in my 17s. Just a boat load of aluminum shavings. Of course I cleaned the living daylights out of 17S including the rear sights. The last thing I want is aluminum shavings reciprocating with the BCG.

I guess this is more venting and giving out some info that if you strip your PMM rear QD and want to get it off, there is a way. Albeit a darn scary one, but effective nonetheless.

DL32,sorry to here you had an issue with you mount removal, I supply all my Kits with a proper 2.5mm Allen wrench and the 8.8 Grade bolts have an extra deep head to them. Did you use the correct Allen wrench supplied? Was it seated all the way into the bolts? In my first Gen kits I had some guys strip hardware as they were a low profile Head, However in the last year and 3000+ QD sets sold the issue of stripped hardware on the QD caps has yet to arise again.

The loctite 242 is one the mildest out there and is not a requirement, in my instructions I "recommend" the use of it but if you are diligent in checking hardware it's really not needed.
Perhaps I should add that into the instructions albeit some one will not use it then the mounting cap will come loose and I will to be blamed for that I suppose?

In the process of manufacturing these kits I use the same hardware and the only issue I have had with it is the Allen key not being seated properly if this is the case you can run into trouble.

Either way glad you got it sorted out,but next time if you have an issue you can just call or E-mail me I always respond.

~Jrod.
 

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Nothing pisses me off more than low quality fasteners. Does anybody else get annoyed when they see license plates with rust stains streaking down from the screws? I mean, come on...

Hardware Technical specs:

Length8 mm
Thread LengthFull
Additional SpecificationsMetric Black-Oxide Class 12.9 Alloy Steel
M3 × 0.5
Minimum Rockwell hardness is C38.
RoHSCompliant
The standard among high-strength fasteners, these screws are stronger than Grade 8 steel screws. They have a minimum tensile strength of 170,000 psi. and a minimum Rockwell hardness of C37, unless noted. Length is measured from under the head.
Metric screws have a Class 5g6g thread fit. They meet DIN 912/ISO 4762.
Black Oxide—Screws have been heat-treated for hardness, which results in a dark surface color.
 

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Hardware Technical specs:

Length8 mm
Thread LengthFull
Additional SpecificationsMetric Black-Oxide Class 12.9 Alloy Steel
M3 × 0.5
Minimum Rockwell hardness is C38.
RoHSCompliant
The standard among high-strength fasteners, these screws are stronger than Grade 8 steel screws. They have a minimum tensile strength of 170,000 psi. and a minimum Rockwell hardness of C37, unless noted. Length is measured from under the head.
Metric screws have a Class 5g6g thread fit. They meet DIN 912/ISO 4762.
Black Oxide—Screws have been heat-treated for hardness, which results in a dark surface color.

Good info. Thank you for using very high quality fasteners!
 
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