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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry to bring up what i'm sure has been beaten to death. So much that the search function said there were too many narrow search criteria but..

Have all my tools, ammo, targets, and tape ready to go zero and practice with tomorrow.

Do most of you use the 25/300m zero? I could have sworn the manual had a couple others listed but I can't find them. So with the 25/300m, the bullet will strike the target when the sights are placed directly on target at 25m and 300m respectively, and between those points the round will be arching up and back down, correct? Anything closer than 25m the sights will have to be placed lower than the target, and anything beyond 300m will have to be placed above.

Do I have that right? Thanks.
 

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I was zeroed at 25 yards but that put me 7.5 inches high at 100y. I didn't like that so I went to a 100y zero that put me just over 2 inches below point of aim at 25y. Your 25/?? Zero is going to depend on how high your optic is in relation to the bore and what ammo is being used. Nothing beats actually punching of the paper to confirm but play around with a ballistic calc like the one hornady has on their website and see what looks like the best for your intended use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I probably won't have an ACOG anytime soon. Probably get a kayak before that so...Irons for a while.

I guess zero at 25m and see if it's close at 300m with my ammo then play around with it.
 

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Any rifle that has a scope with capped turrets I zero in 2" high @ 100 yard that puts my zero at 200-225 depending on round and velocity. Rifles with tactical turrets i zero at 100 yards and adjust upward if time allows. If not I use hold overs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Fun trying to picture the ballistics. The arched flight path stays the same, but by sighting at 50m it brings the sight line to intersect at 50/200m instead of 300m? Guess it's all personal preference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks kgknight...

Like the charts Rhino but that kind of confused me for some reason. Can always re-zero. Can't remember the BZO while in the military...I know it was definitely holding the sights above at 300m.

If i'm looking right a 25m/300m would mean everything in between I would have to aim really low, and high <25m. That just seems strange. If I remember right I had to aim low at 50m and high at 300m. I know that was 5.56 now 7.62 but....

Temporary, that ACOG will appear some day. I just want to be familiar with my POI more. Guess that just means playing around. I can do that. :)
 

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I know you guys are all talking zeros... but that's implying you only have one mechanical zero.

SCAR rear sight can be set from 200yd to 600yd in 100yd increments. Personally I zero'd my irons at 50/200, using the '2' setting, so that the rest correspond accurately to rough distance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I know you guys are all talking zeros... but that's implying you only have one mechanical zero.

SCAR rear sight can be set from 200yd to 600yd in 100yd increments. Personally I zero'd my irons at 50/200, using the '2' setting, so that the rest correspond accurately to rough distance.

That was why I wanted to go with the 25m/300m zero the manual says...but that seems like it may be more difficult than just knowing your trajectory and how high/low to aim at what distance.
 

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Sorry to bring up what i'm sure has been beaten to death. So much that the search function said there were too many narrow search criteria but..

Have all my tools, ammo, targets, and tape ready to go zero and practice with tomorrow.

Do most of you use the 25/300m zero? I could have sworn the manual had a couple others listed but I can't find them. So with the 25/300m, the bullet will strike the target when the sights are placed directly on target at 25m and 300m respectively, and between those points the round will be arching up and back down, correct? Anything closer than 25m the sights will have to be placed lower than the target, and anything beyond 300m will have to be placed above.

Do I have that right? Thanks.
Set your rear sight to the "3" setting and smack-dab in the middle for windage. If you can, measure out 27 yards (25m). Zero your front site (you'll need the right tools to do this - an AR Front Site tool and a torque bit, if I recall correctly?), leaving your rear site alone. This way, your sights are aligned for 25m and 300m (close enough to 'yards' for me). Then, all your future adjustments for windage and elevation are done with the rear sights. Check your zero by moving to 200 meters (219 yards, to be exact) and clicking your rear sight to "2". Should be quite close - an inch or less, certainly within the variance you're going to get just by the size of the post...
 

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I know you guys are all talking zeros... but that's implying you only have one mechanical zero.

SCAR rear sight can be set from 200yd to 600yd in 100yd increments. Personally I zero'd my irons at 50/200, using the '2' setting, so that the rest correspond accurately to rough distance.
Sure, but in practice it's faster and more common to just hold over / under, especially with irons.

Because the assumption when using the rear sight increments is the ballistics of your round match the rear sight drum exactly...

Which begs the question, what round is the drum designed for on the 16 and 17?????
 
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